Cub 1864 Ignition coils
 

Has anyone replaced the ignition coils on an 1864?

I'm wondering if it can be done without removing the engine? It looks like there is enough room to pull the shroud away from the engine if the battery and tray are removed, and the sheetmetal 'firewall' is removed.

I just don't want to find a hidden screw on the bottom of the engine shroud after going the wrong direction and not removing the engine. Not sure the engine would have to be completely removed, maybe just slid front?

The ignition coils -will- be replaced so if no one has an answer, I'll have one in a day or two! ;)

It isn't that tough to remove the engine and it's much easier to pull the tins off with it sitting on the workbench. While you in there you can clean the cooling fins.
:beerchug:

I just did this job, week before last. I removed the engine and I think I got a better repair that way. The reason, the last time it was done by the PO, he changed the left side with the engine in the tractor. He did not set the coil up correctly and what I mean by that he did not have the proper clearance. So he tried the easy way and it was not the best way. It chewed up a coil. I wound up replacing both. I will post a link to my thread in a few minutes.


Here's is my thread. Hope this helps. Also you can repack the CV joints as well. Mine needed it.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=38676

Pull the engine. Six 3/8" bolts are all that hold the motor plate to the frame. Yeah you have to undo some other odd's and ends but it's no big deal. 1st time maybe a couple hours once you get used to the drill 45 minutes is about all it takes. I've had way too much practice. :biggrin2:

Ditto..........:ThumbsUp:

Sounds unanimous! ;)

At first glance, removing the engine seemed be the best way into the coils. I thought I only saw 4 bolts on the bottom of the block? I need to take a closer look. I saw the engine plate but does that clear the hardware on the frame when lifted out?

The driveshaft looks to be attached with 4 allen head bolts. Simple removal, not splined?

I just replaced leaky valve cover gaskets and did a thorough clean up so the fins should not be too dirty. While I was that close I should have replaced the coils!

Thanks for all of the info!!

I'm sure it will be obvious the more I get into it. It just died yesterday and I haven't had a lot of time to look into it yet.

You do not have to remove the socket head bolts to get the drive shaft loose. It will slide out of the CV joint.

Also it has 4 bolts at the bottom of the block, but it is easier to remove the six bolts holding the plate to the frame. 2 in the front, 2 in the middle and 2 in the back. Hope this helps,

Greg

Greg,
Thanks, that helps a lot!
Rod

I agree with the opinion of pulling the engine do replace the coils, you can do the job much better and efficiently, plus the cleaning of everything and the other "might as well while you're at it" items, like the front (or both) oil seal, why not go ahead and replace it now instead of waiting for it to start leaking? And the starter clean and lube.

OK, engine out....well kind of. ;) I decided to put 2x4 spacers between the engine plate and frame which allowed the engine to slide front far enough for easy access. Putting the engine on the bench isn't a one man job!

What part number coils did you use? I'm guessing there is no way to check the coils for spark before reassembling?

Most of the time was spent cleaning parts! I'm the kind of person that has to have things looking new. :)