Plow/blade Lift connecting rod for CC 100?
 

Newbie here, just joined. I've had this CC for about 15 years now as we inherited it from the father-in-law original owner. Immediately went through the strip to its component parts and repair, replace, repaint everything we could exercise. This included a full engine replacement as he had put it away for dead due to a rod sticking out the side of the block.

I recently got a plow (snow blade) from a buddy but it is missing the arm and associated parts to raise and lower it from the deck lifter (I assume that is where that component connects). The lift bracket on the blade itself is there and healthy.

I'd realy love to put this classic work horse to good use on my 400' driveway this winter. My John Deer D140 just doesn't cut it.

Anyone know how this hooks up and where I might find the connecting arm and parts? I checked on ccspecialties and cub classics but found no reference. I did get a schematic of the blade and its parts from cub cadet a couple years ago when I first acquired it but oddly it doesn't list a number for the connecting rod even though it is pictured in the schematic.

I've included an image of this unit. You can see the lift bracket on the top right. I Would also need to replace one of the levels for the blade.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Greetings! Glad you are enjoying your 100 and looking forward to making it more useful. We always like hearing when a cub is sent to do the work that a deere just can't. First, the subframe of your blade is really for a quick attach (QA), which is not on your 100. Your 100 takes the bolt on subframe. You could modify your subframe by cutting off those posts that go toward the inside or you could advertise in the Trading Post section of the forum for the correct subframe. Next, you will need a lift paddle/bracket for your lift arm on your cub cadet. There are two types, the earlier type has a bottom hole that requires you to remove your foot rest on the driver's RHS to slide it on and then it U-bolts to your armstrong lift arm and the later version has a slotted groove that does not require you to remove the foot rest. It slides over the foot rest post and then a bolt is used to secure it. Likewise, it too U-bolts to the armstrong lift arm. Last, you will need a lift bar that goes from this paddle to the lift bracket on your blade A-frame. You can advertise in the Trading Post (Wanted) section of the forum for this item or you can make your own out of 1/2" stock. If you choose to make your own, mount the blade on your cub and the lift bracket. Place the Armstrong handle in the forward position, then measure from the center of the large hole on your lift bracket to the center of the hole on your lift bracket on the A-frame of your blade. Use some heat and a vice to bend your stock to your measurements, leaving about 1"-1 1/4" extra beyond the each bend. Drill a small hole on each end to use a pin to hold the lift bar in place and you are good to go.

The feet/shoes are available (and so are the lift brackets, lift bars...) are available from our sponsors. I'm sure others can provide better assistance than I have if you need anything further. I have some pictures of some of this, but I have a meeting to go to now.....sorry.

Cub Cadet 123

Thank you, that is a very thorough description of the situation. I am assuming the "Armstrong" lift arm you mention is the lever with the release button on top of it? (Not familiar with the terminology, thanks for understanding).

The gentleman on cub classics suggested rigging a cable as the lift mechanism. I'll be looking into that but will be trying to find the right parts first. I'd like to keep this as original as possible.

Obviously I have to replace the seat as it's about as unoriginal as one can get. I think dad may have gotten that off one of his many pieces of construction equipment and just bolted it on.. Lol. It warbles like crazy though even with everything as tight as it will go. A tricky ride. I see there are a number of seats available, shouldn't be too much of a challenge.

I have used the lift cable, too, but on my snow thrower applications. The only down side of using the lift cable is that there is no down force to it. On a snow thrower, it doesn't matter because of the weight is substantial enough (about 225 lbs), but on a snow/dirt blade it does matter. The blade will ride up over (float) humps instead of cutting them down.

Cub Cadet 123

First off... :Welcome2:

Here's a few pictures & dimensions that I took off my Dad's 100 when he gave me his blade. He had the true IH part on his tractor but was unwilling to let me take that with the blade. The bracket that attaches to the tractor's lift handle is from 2" x 1/4" flat stock and the rod is 1/2" round stock. The U-bolt is just a 1/4" that was just wide enough to fit around my lift handle stem that I got at the hardware store - nothing fancy.

Lift rod: 34 -1/4" long center to center after being bent. I assume the rod was about 2" longer prior to being bent. I'd like it to be about an inch or two shorter to carry the blade a bit higher during transport if I ever made a new lift rod.

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ry6ik29.jpg

Lift handle plate: 9.375" long. With the bottom edge being zero, the holes are as follows with all being centered on the 2" width of the flat stock:
Lift handle pivot bar = 1" O.C., 0.75" dia.
Lower lift rod hole = 5.125" O.C., 0.5" dia.
Upper lift rod hole = 7.5" O.C., 0.5" dia.

I made the little piece at the top to fit the U-bolt and keep the section with the holes almost plumb so I don't have any good measurements for that. The full bracket was made of two pieces welded together.

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6141syjr.jpg

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/...psueikfrc0.jpg

One thing I do when making a lift rod is to run the front tires on a 2x4 and having the blade mounted to the tractor I lower the lift handle and have the blade resting on the floor.
Measure the distance and make your lift rod. This way of measuring will keep your blade on the ground while plowing uneven areas and still give you enough lift height to be happy with.
Your mileage may vary.:biggrin2:

The qa subframe should bolt right on with the top holes, I had on on my 122 that way.

You can also make the lift arm in a press. I use a 20t HF and have no trouble getting a good 90 bend without heat and is very quick. The blocks that come with the press have a v slot. Lay the bar across it and a piece of triangle stock on the press bar. If you happen across someone with one you can borrow, the press makes it very easy to duplicate the bends.

Cool, pictures are very helpful.

I've got a bender though it's never made it out of the box. I bought it about 4 years ago for a project that went a different direction.
All good ideas and excellent info. As soon as I get this all worked out ill post some pics of the result. May be awhile as now I'm looking at possible neck surgery so I'll let y'all know when I get to this and if I encounter any gotcha's along the way.

Also, I'm actually looking to switch to a snow thrower if I can find one for this tractor. With a brand new driveway and nicely planted lawn the whole 400' of it I'm kinda unwilling to risk tearing up the grade on the edges with the plow. I think a blower will do better anyways.

I'll be posting in the "wanted" section accordingly but if there's one out there I'd surely be interested.

Thanks.