More "O" questions
 

So, rather than start a new thread each time, I thought I would just post one thread with all my questions as they some up, since I am brand new to cubs.

My rough O is coming along. I completely rebuilt the transmission, cleaned and rebuilt the carburetor and installed all new ignition parts. I also had to glue one of the clutch discs back on. I also had to put new bushings in the axle and have the spindle bores bored out and brass bushings installed.

It runs, but like crap at higher throttle, but seems to be related to ignition power. It is not wired, I have been jumping it to get it running. I am totally unfamiliar with starter generators still and need to learn more. Does it need to be wired completely and have a battery to run correctly?

The other issue I am having is getting the clutch adjusted so that it will click into gear without grinding, and the pedal also doesn't spring back up. I have to pull it up to engage it. There is a spring under there, but something is up with it.

Yeah, the springs on the Originals are a little goofy compared to the others. Download the manual from the tech. section and you should be able to figure it out. I have had several tractors that PO's have left set outside, sometimes the bushings in the frame where the clutch pedal rod goes through need to be sprayed with PB Blaster and "worked" until free.

Did you soak the carb overnight or did you just spray it out? Soaking it and then running a tiny wire through all the passages and blowing them out with compressed air is best. ALSO make sure the main needle is clean on the inside (the tube is hollow and it needs to be clear).

Once the carb is cleaned well, you will probably want to set the timing. Again, in the tech section there methods for static timing that will help you out.
Be sure to clean the points well and get your timing right, then adjust your carb. Remember you are setting the timing not "gapping the points" so leave the feeler gauge in the toolbox.

If it still runs poorly, you may want to pull the head off, clean out the carbon, inspect everything well (make sure the valves are seating well) sand the head flat (tech section again) and replace the gasket.

Unless you have internal problems, it should run like a top after that.

One other thing to check is to make sure there is not a lot of play around the main butterfly valve on the carb. If there is a lot of wear it will suck air and cause it to run lean. You can test this by running the engine a high rpm's and spray the top of the butterfly valve with starting fluid. If the engine rpm's changes and it kinda smooths out then it is sucking air.

The ignition on this engine needs to have a battery to operate unless it is the pull start version. The pull start version has a magneto and does not need a battery.

Ok, thanks for the tips guys. The carb is tight, so I think ill pull out the timing light and check it. I need to remember the process now, its been a while. Only ever dont it on a k321.

One other thing, what holds the choke cable in place on the carb end? I think I am missing a piece. I have the little holder that slips over the cable itself and has a bolt hole through it, but I have no idea what that bolts to? My guess is something off of the top of the air cleaner? I am definitely missing something here.