1812 driveshaft questions
 

my 1812 has been shearing coiled spring pins , I dug into it today. was going to replace the front flange and bearing and also the rear centering bearing. took it apart and found the the input shaft on the hydro is egg shaped causing my issues. can you repair the input shaft or what can I do to fix the spring pin issues?

thanks in advance

Rob

I had my 1572 have the same condition with the hydro shaft becoming egg-shaped. It really did not really show up until I was randomly loosing sealing ability of the front seal and loosing hytran. As I was digging into it, I found the bronze self centering bearing at the pump end of the driveshaft was worn out and was allowing the disconnect clutch to rotate in an off-center out of balance condition. I believe this is what led to the problem with the hydro pump shaft becoming egg-shaped.

Rob

If the input shaft is worn the best thing to do is to replace the shaft. BIG $$$$$. I had one years ago that was worn, what I did was drilled the coupler or arm as they call it 90 degrees from the pin hole and tapped it for set screws to hold it from moving. I also used some Devcon plastic metal. I was working a couple years later when I sold the tractor. Never did like that design with only a pin. Good luck.

You cannot repair it. Not cost-effectively anyway. Your best most economical route is to replace the hydro with a good used unit. They usually sell for around $125.

It is caused by driveshaft misalignment either because it is bent, or because the centering bearing went out. The off-center load causes the shaft to wear a flat spot on it because that is where the most pressure is on the shaft. I'm not sure if that makes any sense.... but it's the best description I can do at the moment.

Frank, I think Rob is talking about the shaft being egg shaped where the coupler fits over it. The 1811 only has a round shaft with a 1/4" pin through it unlike the splines on the Supers and Cyclops series.

I took it to mean that the shaft was egg shaped at the front pump bearing.....not just the hole for the pin. :bigthink:

Jon we are on the same page. Egg shaped shaft. What I suggested is a stop gap fix. As you mentioned the proper thing to do is replace the pump or the shaft. The used pump is less expensive.

could I drill out the cast piece to equal the input shaft? or less trouble swaping hydro"s. I have an extra one on the shelf.

Less metal for the pin to turn the shaft with a larger hole. I wouldn't.

Rob

Post a pic of your coupler from the side with the pin and 90 degrees to the pin and I'll try to explain better what it is that I did.

Edit: I found a pic of the "Arm coupler" from Jeff in PA. What I did was tap the existing 1/4" holes for 5/16" or 3/8" set screws, I don't remember. Then drilled a 1/4" hole 90 degrees to the old hole for the spirol pin. Like I said I also put some Devcon plastic steel on the shaft to help fill the worn area. The set screws help to keep the whole mess for wobbling and allow you to get it centered. The pic is a replacement that Jeff in PA is making. I would bet that he could make one for you as I described, I would also make the part that fits over the shaft longer so that it engages more of the unused portion of the shaft. You'll have to measure how much longer it can be. In my experience there is around 1/4 of space between the pump seal and the coupler. That part of the shaft is not worn so a longer coupler will get things back to running nice and true.