Broken axle bolts
 

I bought an 1872 and after a much needed bath, I found the drive line needs rebuilt and 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the frame and rear end together are broke off. My question is can you pull the axle then remove the remaining bolts that hold the tube to the rear end and slide the tube off the busted bolts, or will you have to drill them out before removing the axle tube?

Plan on pulling the complete rear, removing the axles, remove the remaining bolts, remove the axle tubes, then the fun begins. I've tried easy outs and pretty much everything else known to man. They break off flush at the point that the axle tube joins to the trans housing. Only thing that has worked for me is to weld a washer to the broken bolt and then weld a nut to the washer in order to remove the broken axel tube bolts. Your results may vary. :biggrin2:

Never would have thought about that solution. How did the washer size compare to the broken bolt?

I had this same issue on my 782 with aluminum rear, the best way to get out bolts that are broke off flush is to weld a nut to the broke off bolt, I usually use one size bigger nut than the bolt. It may take a couple tries to get to work, but it almost always works.

HTH,
Mike

Same size.

If you can find a cast one and get rid of that rear end is my recordation and if you need drive line parts pm me I have everything you could need most of it new I updated my to a cv joint set up.

I went through this exact situation last spring. All of my bolts were broken off flush to the differential housing with nothing to grab onto. Compounding the problem is the loc-tite used by the factory, damn good stuff. Although I think Sam's idea is a great one, I have no welder, so I used an easy out. Hey, no problem, the first one I tried broke loose and came right out. I broke three easy outs on the next one, actually broke a brand new handle, and rounded off the remaining supply. I'm told heat will release the loc-tite, but I was afraid to get the Al. that hot. I ended up drilling and tapping the broken bolts. Voila, turned them in to break them loose and then backed them out.
I replaced the axle seals and bearings while I was at it and I had one beveled bearing that was chewed up, so make sure you check that. You should also consider adding some kind of brace to prevent this happening again. Kind of funny, but when I bought my tractor, I saw the design of the mount as a potential problem and even had it in my head what to do, but didn't. Oh, well... here's my design;
I went to a shop I used to work for and had them burn them out to the tune of $48, I don't know if I got a discount or not, I may have, but I thought that price was very good. You can also opt for a Sammac design sold at extreme, I believe, but they are about twice that price.

I did the easy out method on my 1872. Used heat for the thread lock and was 4 for 4.

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/a...psph89dtja.jpg

Thinking about installing a cast rear end I have, but I've got a question. The aluminum rear end has 2 brackets towards the front that has 4 holes in it, whereas the cast only has 2 holes in it. Will this work, is it a big deal? The bracket I'm referring to bolts the rear end to the frame.

The heat from welding the washers and nuts to the broken bolts will release the factory Loctite..

If you use a rear end brace after you are done you don't even have to use the front bolts if your housing is broken