2082/1811 hybrid?
 

Hey guys, I have a good running 1811 tractor. I'd like to possibly add power steering to it, but I found a 2082 parts tractor for $300, and I'm wondering if maybe I can switch my 1811 engine, rear axle, and sheet metal over to the 2082 frame. I've got decent mechanical ability, but can't do too much fabricating or engineering. How hard of a project would this be? Is it just a matter of moving parts over? I haven't seen this parts tractor yet, but here's what I know about it from the sellers email:

The 2082 is missing the rear axle, engine, drive line and front plastic. The dash tower is there, front axle, all power steering and hydraulic components are still intact, I do have the rear fender pan and gas tank but not installed.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

Well... ehem, first of all, welcome and what not! Second of all, the sheet metal will not just hook directly up to the 2082, reason you ask?? Its the dash. You would need to move the dash/cowl assembly from 1811 to the 2082 to make things line up right without a bunch of modification.

DO NOT move the 1811 rear to the 2082. They are not the same, why?? The super rear ends are geared lower to run the 26" tires. So unless you want to go skating around on 23's and have a odd ball looking rig, don't do it.

Far as the engine goes, it should be a direct fit since both tractors use the magnum engine.


You need to ask yourself a few questions first...

1. Do I want a garden tractor or a SUPER garden tractor

2. What attachments do I have, GT or SGT, if any?

3. How much work do I want to go to and how much am I willing to learn on the fab end of things?

4. What am I going to use the tractor for?



Heres my opinion... Its not realistic to kill the 1811 to make a hodge podge of a super garden tractor. Stick with the 1811, use as much of the power steering components as possible, i.e. cylinder, orbital, lines, etc... You will have to make a few lines possibly to tie the orbital into the spool valve and you will not be able to use the power steering bracket nor the super gt axle. the pwr steering brkt on the gts are very easy to built. Then part the rest of the 2082 out to recoup some of your cost. JUST my :TwoCents:

P.S. I may be interested in the front axle and pwr steering cylinder bracket if you go that route...

Thanks for the thoughts! I'm thinking you're right, I'll probably just stick with the 1811 for now and use it as is. Maybe I'll try adding power steering in the future, or maybe not. I'm always buying and selling anyway, so chances are I'll put a bunch of work into a machine and just sell it a few months later. The main reason I'm considering any of this is because I'd like power steering for my 450 snowblower. But I can get by for awhile and maybe buy a Super tractor someday.

Hey John,

Have you lubed the steering up on the 1811? Besides the grease zerks, I pull the steering wheel and dump a lot of PTFE fortified lubricant down the tube and put a little moly graphite on the top bushing. I find the 1811 steers pretty easy once you lube it up GOOD!

BTW: I always lube chassis joints with them unloaded - that is - I jack the front end up for lubing.

PeterJ

Have you ever used power steering? It is so friggen awesome. Would be worth your effor to put on. I love it so much I did it to my 1450, which is alot more involved than your 1811. :BlahBlah:

Thanks for the advice. It does steer really really nice, but currently I don't have any attachments on it

Rescue11, I realize your comment was not directed to me but I'm going to add another 2 cents for John to consider:

I have an 1811 and an 1864 (factory power steering) too. Yes, power steering is nice, especially if you are sitting still and need to turn the wheels. I would not want tilt steering , which the 1864 has, without power steering.

Each type has benefits. I just wouldn't go through too much to put it on an 1811 until I first tried lubing up the steering stem first. The difference is huge when the stem is lubed up good. You can actually spin the steering wheel a lot faster without power steering. It is especially noticeable when spinning the steering wheel from stop to stop. I find I have to do that a lot when blowing snow.

I ran a 1512 (same as an 1811 but with a HEAVY 3-cylinder Kubota 600 Diesel) for the last 20 years. With a QA-42A on the 1512, steering was a one-handed affair with a spinner knob on the steering wheel and the tires aired up to about 15psi. Of course, as with any manual steering system, it is much much easier if the tractor is moving a little. I probably pulled the steering wheel and lubed the stem about every 100hrs. It was apparent when it needed to be done.

Also, my driveway is gravel and most of the winter it is covered with hard pack snow and ice which has a low drag coefficient which helps. If I lived in a slightly warmer climate and had textured cement under my front tires my opinion would be different.

Cheers!
:beerchug:

PeterJ

Yes, putting the 450 on the front will make a difference.

PeterJ