K301 engine oil rings
 

My cub cadet 127 has a k301a engine in and has been using some oil the last few years, and I decided to put new rings in and check it for wear and bore it if needed. I noticed a couple things when taking apart the head and removing the piston. 1. There was alot of carbon built up around the exhaust valve, it was de-carboned 3 years ago. 2. The piston is STD and the top and second ring gaps were lined up on one side of the piston. Ring end gap for top and second measure .082 and .040. The oil rings seem loose and have .035 clearance around them to the bore. Is this how the oil ring setup is supposed to be or do the oil rings suppose to have the same end gap .01 to .02? Should they compress when installed in the bore? Thank you for any help someone can provide.
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Time to get it bored. Almost 50 year old standard bore and looks like it's using quite a bit of oil now. After market rebuild kits available and not too bad on the wallet

Time to bore it. I can see that from Illinois.... without measuring the ring gap.

X3 on boring. Not worth trying to patch it. Do it right, it will last another 30+ years!

I agree its time to bore it, here's a link to the kit from a reliable seller.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/MASTER-REBUILD...097?nav=SEARCH

Don't cheap out and buy the kit that doesn't come with the new connecting rod, I've seen to many Kohler's with broken rods to ever consider reusing one especially since there so cheap.

Since I'm not familiar with your engine building knowledge I will point out that before you order a kit you need to disassemble the engine and take it to the machine shop, they will measure the bore and the crank and tell you what size piston and connecting rod you need to order.

Ok, good. Thank you for the recommendations. I am taking it today to get measured for needed rework. I don't have the bore gauge to get in the cylinder. The brgs feel real good, and the valve guides seem tight. I've done a few engine rebuilds 15 years ago, and getting into this for spring project. Thank you for the link, I was looking at those kits.

What does brgs stand for? Bearings? I know alot of people reuse the bearings (which is perfectly fine provided there in good shape) but I always replace them, the same guy that sells the kit I linked to sells bearing for about $50 a set. Just a little added insurance that the job will last.

If the bearings look and feel good, I don't replace them. A ball bearing running in oil lasts a very long time.

i agree.. i collect the bearings out of old kohlers, and i will take a 40 yr old USA set anyday over taiwan or even worse...japanese are maybe a close second...amazed me how many countries of origins ive found...even brazil!! just check and see if the inner race has significant wobble compared to the outer race.. once cleaned out with brakecleen or parts washer there will be some anyways... i used "kustom lawn and garden" for a rebuild not so long ago and the castings and machine quality look better than the kohler...but im not certain that their parts are even made here or china anyways...most likely will need exhaust valve though, and my personal opinion on that is to get a real stellite one..

I don't like stellite valves. Sure they can take heat, but they are soft and wear out faster.