Help with 1620 Lawn tractor - blades won't engage
 

I'm hoping someone can help me trouble shoot an issue with my cub cadet 1620 lawn tractor.

Here is some background:
We bought this mower last year and it was fine. Started a little rough, ran a little rough, but probably appropriate for it's age and level on maintenance. It looks like the previous owner had done some work on it. The PTO switch has been replaced and moved. Unclear if it was a mechanical issue or just disabling a safety feature - the mower blades stay engaged in reverse. The safety switch under the seat is also disabled.

This is what started the problem:
Last week our mower just died suddenly while mowing. The mower had been dragging a little (losing speed then picking back up) on and off while mowing, but it had done that before. When it died it was very suddenly, like someone have just turned the key off and would not restart.

Here is what we did:
Initially we thought it was a fuse. My husband checked them - he swore they were all fine. We had the battery checked - it was good, and we recharged it for good measure. We then replaced the solenoid and the starter switch (it was kind of loose and it was done more because we were already ordering parts). After that was done it still would not start. So we traced the circuit again and this time found a blown fuse. We replaced the fuse and it started right up. Now this was the first time that I personally looked at the fuse, so we aren't sure if my husband missed it or if it blew afterwards, my eyes are much better than his. We're just not sure.

And then:
The mower started, drove and shifted fine but the blades just won't engage. There's no clicks groans, shudders or moans. We don't think it's getting power at all. The old PTO switch is still in place with duct tape covering it, so we tried flipping that for kicks and it kills the engine.

Neither of us are mechanics, we can do simple things like those outlined above, but we really can't make heads of tails of what the previous owner did and he is now deceased. I'm thinking that there was a power issue from the battery to the blades all along from the way the mower was running before it died. I'm wondering it it has something to do with the replaced PTO switch.

We've looked into just taking it to a shop, but they are all backed up 4-6 weeks. Are the any other obvious things we could try? Before committing to letting our lawn go to hay?

First, welcome to OCC........ :Welcome2:

Let me dig through my pile of wiring diagrams and circuits to see if we can come up with something.

BUT....in the mean time......and as a Test Only, you can do this thing. This will determine if the PTO clutch itself is either good or bad.

Take a long jumper wire, say 5' or more. Make sure that each end of the jumper wire has bare wire (copper). There should be a "connector" near the PTO Clutch. Disconnect this connector. With the end of the wire that comes from the PTO Clutch, stick one end of the Jumper wire into this connector. With the other end of the Jumper Wire, touch it to the Positive (+) Battery Terminal. If the PTO Clutch is good, you should see some sparking of the wire at the battery terminal and hear a "clicking" noise at the clutch. If you hear no clicking noise. most likely the PTO Clutch is TOAST.

Perform the test and report back.

Okay, I found the 1620 PTO Circuit Diagram. Let me know when you are ready and we can walk you through it.

The wiring has been redone so we are just trying to sort out what he did before we try testing it.

The test I asked you to perform, has NOTHING to do with your wiring. It checks PTO Clutch to see if it is good or not.

The original PTO switch was replaced, but he left the old one in place. It must be hooked up somehow because if you flip it the motor cuts off. So we hooked it back up to the old switch - oddly enough, the blades engage, but then the motor immediately shorts out. We are still looking for a jumper wire, but in the mean time - I'm thinking this means the clutch works fine?

"Make sure that each end of the jumper wire has bare wire (copper). There should be a "connector" near the PTO Clutch. Disconnect this connector. With the end of the wire that comes from the PTO Clutch, stick one end of the Jumper wire into this connector. With the other end of the Jumper Wire, touch it to the Positive (+) Battery Terminal."

This test involves wiring that has been altered - some of it looks like it's been messed with several times.

That means the PTO Clutch is OK.

Next, remove the Old PTO Switch, and install the new one in it's place. I assume, that this is the correct PTO Switch (925-0893).

The PTO Switch should be wired this way:

Terminal A = Brown Wire
Terminal B = Black Wire
Terminal C = Red wire, to Neutral Switch
Terminal D = Red Wire, to Starter Solenoid
Terminal E = Red wire, to Reverse Relay

AGAIN.....the test I asked you to perform.....has NOTHING to do with your existing wiring. You are reading way too much into a simple test.

This is what I am asking........