SG Power Steering Cylinder
 

This past weekend in an attempt to tighten up the steering, I was replacing the ball joints at the ends of the power steering cylinder since they was really clicking as I drove it around. The first one I started to work on what the end of the cylinder that connects to the front axle. I broke the jam nut free while it was still attached, then disconnected it from the LH knuckle. When disconnected, I accidentally lost my balance on some ice and leaned/fell toward the tractor. The shaft of the power steering cylinder easily retracted. I would have thought there would be some resistance. I disconnected the hydraulic lines and capped the fittings on the cylinder off. I was able to extend and retract the cylinder without much effort even with the fittings capped. How much leakage is allowable with this cylinder and what are my options with it since it is welded and doesn't appear to be made to be rebuilt as it is.

Sorry you fell on ice. Even more sorry you have ice. Warm enough here, I'm thinking about getting my motorcycle out, and mowing the grass.... with the cub of course, not the bike. :biggrin2:

How much leakage is acceptable. Well.... there's not a spec for that. On larger equipment it is measured in how many turns you can make with the steering wheel with the cylinder dead headed. But, on a small machine, if your not constantly having to turn the wheel so it goes straight, or have to keep moving the wheel to maintain a turn, or as long as your not having general steering issues like you turn the wheel but it doesn't move the cylinder..... it's fine. You want no leaks out the end. FWIW, if the cylinder was not full of oil when you capped the lines, it likely did move. First off, air compresses and expands insidea the cylinder when you move the ram. It may or may not have actually been bypassing. Second, it's an oil cylinder, not an air cylinder. They are sealed different. Last, you can rebuild them but you must cut the weld in a lathe, rebuild it and weld it back together. If you don't have access to a shop that will do that, they still sell new ones.

Thanks Jonathan, When I moved the piston to each end of the stroke, then uncapped, there was no pressure build up but as you said that was with air. I will have to see how it runs back on the machine. IIRC, within a year after I bought my 1572, in order to keep it in a straight line, I had to keep the steering wheel continually moving depending on the slope I was on, just like you said. There was a recall on the cylinder at the time and I had it replaced at no cost.