Make a 1a tiller self powered
 

Hey guys, I posted a while back about picking up a 1a tiller. Going to use it on my 1812. Finally got the gearbox back together (the vertical shaft was bent). Anyway, now trying to source some parts. Going to need a dedicated mule drive and the long belt. Also, going to make or buy the adaptor for the tiller to use the 3 point. Anyway, been thinking about just putting an engine on the tiller to make it a 400 model tiller. Anyone done this? Pros or cons? It's not a perfect example of a 1a, so I don't mind cutting or welding on it. I'm normally opposed to cutting some of these attachments up. And the only 400 tiller I know that was around was basically NOS, and a little pricey--at least for my blood. Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't. Engines are more expensive than a long belt to run that tiller. Seems like a no-brainer to me.

I have often thought about doing the same thing, not that i mind the belt but it would just be so much easier to put on and take off.

That's why I made mine quick change. I am really surprised that will all the people who complain about removing and installing the tiller, that no one else has copied my design. So simple. Maybe I should make and sell the adapter. :bigthink:

Agreed! I have a horizontal Briggs around here somewhere:bigthink:

My other thought for "self powering" was that I could put a weight bracket up front. I know these things are heavy, and my property isn't flat. Guess I could always burn a bracket on the mule drive for a weight bracket.

2B Tiller on 1811, J-mech's title. I need to figure out how to do the link.:bigthink:

I'd love to see some pics of your design :WWP:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=23922

I welded the bar onto the bracket for the gear box. If I was to do it over, I would have welded it to a plate and bolted it on. The other thing that I have found I needed is a handle on the vertical bar that goes into the pin up top. I would also make my lift arm that goes into the sleeve hitch just a bit longer. Either way, one pin and the belt is all I have to pull to install or remove the tiller. Pretty easy. Does work better to install/remove on a flat level surface. I've dropped it off in the yard several times while doing garden work. PITA when the tractor and tiller aren't on the same plane.

It's basically a copy of what you need in order to use a 3pt. No big deal to make a few changed and it would work on a 3pt tractor.

J-mech, so you welded the round stock to the gearbox bracket, vs making another plate (like the xtreme style)?

It takes me 20 min to convert mine from mowing to tilling.