Relief valve leaking on 2284
 

Hey guys, hope all is well with everyone!

So I noticed a few mows ago that my 2284 had a few drips coming from the trans as I let it warm up in the driveway. I pull the tunnel cover off and saw that it was coming from the relief valves (don't remember if it was one or both). Anywho, I grabbed a wrench to make sure they were tight and I got a small bit of turn out of each and the leaking seemed to stop. Or so I thought. I went to mow again the other day and noticed it was leaking again. As the leak wasn't pouring and this time of year I need to move when I can, I kept an eye on it and proceeded to get my mowing job done.

Fast forward to today and I just jumped onto partstree.com and looked at a breakdown of things. Seems as though there are three o-rings that go around the outside of the valve when you install it. To me, it seems like a simple fix; replace the o-rings and be done with it but that got me to thinking, I don't think I've read too much about these being an issue on other Cubs. I know that rebuilding the relief valves is a somewhat common thing but is it ever as simple as the seating o-rings? The machine has just shy of 1000 hours on it and since I've had it it has been maintained well (I think I was the first to change the trans fluid, though, maybe a couple hundred hours ago).

Any of you guys have similar issues with the o-rings going bad or allowing fluid to leak by? Or am I looking at something more expensive and a potential relief valve rebuild? I haven't had a chance to pull things apart and take a better look yet so I'm just asking because it's all I can do for now :biggrin2:

The part of the Check Valve that is "usually" the culprit that leaks, is the internal O Ring. The ONLY way to fix this, is to cut the crimp and open the valve. The O Ring is simply to replace. The issue is closing the Check Valve back up. Some people tack weld the cap back on. I am not a fan of this procedure, in that the heat from the weld can compromise the newly installed O Ring. After all, there is a reason why Sundrand "crimped" the cap on in the first place.

I personally prefer, just replacing the Check Valve. However, it is your call.

Take them both out and send them to this guy for a rebuild

Machtech Direct
605 Furnace Rd.
Conneaut Ohio 44030
Phone: 440-499-5813
Email: mark.machtech@gmail.com

Last time I had a set done it was about $75 for the pair and turn around was about 8 days.

That may be an option, I'd rather have them rebuilt for 1/4 the cost than buy new. That'd be a good winter project :biggrin2:

Thank both of you guys :beerchug:

What Sam said. I sent him 4 of them back in the summer and he repaired and sent them back to me in less than a week. They are working great.