Electrolysis Tank
 

I'm working on building an electrolysis tank for cleaning parts and other items. I was checking to see if anyone had any info they wanted to share to help me along. I have the tub, rebar for four corners, wood, hanger parts, wire, and a battery charger. From the research I've done looks like most people are using Arm & Hammer washing soda at 1Tbsp per gallon. I know I need to stay away from stainless steel for any hardware. Thanks in advance for any information y'all can provide.

I have seen several threads on here before about this..

I know there are more but here is one link.. there are two more links within the thread that look pretty interesting..

I know close to nothing about it!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showt...t=electrolosis


Good Luck!!

Thanks for the links. I did a search and looked over a few articles but these must have been too far down the page. I'm going to get this going over the weekend and try it out on some Korean made cast-iron pans before I put something in I can't replace. I'll post some pics for anyone that wants to check it out.

An old Gent who went by the name Geezer on the other ih forum, had a good write up on his tank. I think he used Calgon water softener, but he was only removing paint, he had already removed grease and oil prior to the dip.

So this process just turns the rust black??!!
And the crappy scaly stuff is still there??
Then what, you paint OVER it??
I'll keep sandblasting thank you.

For the $75 it cost to sandblast, prime and paint the 149 fame, I sure ain't gonna screw around w/all that work.
Small parts go in a bucket of vinegar and get the wire brush treatment the next morning, then rattle can primer and Rustoleum Transport Yellow the next day and I'm ready to reassemble.

Get the pan Korean or USA with the BIGGEST BUTTON
Oz

I do electrolysis with washing soda in a 50 gallon plastic drum for my bigger parts and I soak smaller parts and nuts/bolts in white vinegar. Both ways work great but both take time, I'm talking like at least 2/3 days or more. The longer you can let it cook the better things will come out. In both ways, the parts come out with a black residue which washes off easily with water and a fine wire brush or a stiff bristled brush. Once rinsed, they will be clean and bright, I then spray the parts with Kleen Strip Etch & Prep (phosphoric acid) which you can buy in the HD/Lowes paint depts. Rinse the parts before the acid dries and dry the parts thoroughly so they don't rust before you can paint them. This process will remove some paint but will not strip good paint to bare metal so if that is your goal you will still have more work to do. The better you can get the part looking before soaking the better the electrolysis or vinegar will do, in other words a going over with a wire brush to remove scaley rust and paint.

ABOVE ALL, NO GREASE! I have found grease or oil on the parts tends to stop all the action. It ruins the vinegar, and deters the electrolysis process. So use a de-greaser of some type on greasy parts and rinse it off good before soaking.

You don't have to worry about ruining anything. Both processes seem to only work on the rust, good steel surfaces are not affected. So unless you have a paper thin part only held together by rust you don't have to worry. Of course a steel surface pock marked by rust will remain pock marked.

I have a sandblaster and cabinet, it has it's place for it's situations but I prefer electrolysis or vinegar for 90% of my rust removal. Much easier (and cleaner) to set parts in there and walk away for a few days (as long as you have the time). Hope all this helps.

Good report there from ironman.:beerchug:

I recently got this info from member smalljob;

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

Molasses is very good at cleaning rusty parts
Oz

It's good for pun'kin pie too.:ThumbsUp: