1811 rear axel seal.
 

Well the spare 1811 started leaking at the right axle seal this past summer. I had bought Hytran and filter for servicing this summer. But decided to make it a winter project after finding the leak.

I have had this 1811 since May 2013 and never changed the Hytran. I think I got real lucky, either somebody just worked on it when I got it or took real good care of it.

Shop vac makes that mess disappear.

Okay I had bought all the gaskets for doing a complete job and modifying the housing for the axle tube drains. But as good as things are looking I may just leave things alone. I'm not the best mechanic, so "if it ain't broke don't fix it." may just apply here.

Your tractor, so do as you wish. I will say when I pulled the axle housings off my 1811, there were 2 very surprised folks at how gunky they were--me and my dad. If it were mine and I had the time, I would go ahead and do it, maybe even change the pump gasket as well. If you want to compromise, look at some of Sam's old posts. He used a brake vacuum to suck out the oil. To me, that would be acceptable considering how clean yours already was inside. Not to mention it is a LOT less work.

I used a old turkey baster and removed the fluid in the axle tube housings. Looks nice and clean no sign of water. Anyone see a problem with removing one of these bolts, drilling a small hole and installing a breather.

Looks like you have more of a leak than just the seal. Lots of oil on that right axle inside of the frame. Hydro looks pretty gunky too. Better wash it all off. If you have the gaskets, take the time and pull the rear end, give it a bath, pull the axle tubes, drill the holes, put in a quark gasket and fix anything else that you see wrong while it's out.

You can add a vent, but I would do it on the top on the same area as the fill tube. Not where the bolts are.

Curious, what are those bolts for?

What he said...:beerchug:

Same housing as used on a SGT. That's where the rear PTO bearing block gets bolted. On a GT, they just fill the holes. Pure speculation on my part, but I think on some rear ends they go all the way through, but not all. Just however the casting/machining went that day. So, they just plugged them all in case they were open to the inside. I guess it was cheaper to put in a bolt than it was to cast it thicker there so it didn't open up into the cavity below.