Trans fluid and filter change
 

Hi all. Had a question. Acquired a 1986 1211 hydro, from an older gentleman, that had the misfortune of loosing the engine oil drain plug, while running tractor. Broke the connecting rod, so I rebuilt the Kohler M12. Runs pretty good. Thought I read somewhere that the axle tubes can collect water in them, causing them to split in freezing temps. I've kept her in heated garage because I didn't want to tempt fate. Is there a fix for this? I'd like to store her in unheated space next year. Figured the time to attempt anything, is when doing the oil change and filter. Thanks for any input.

Here is the fix:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=24352


Welcome to the forum!

Thanks
 

Thanks Jonathan. I knew I had seen that info somewhere. Man that's a lot to digest. Really didn't want to disassemble the whole axle. I might just attempt the suction method. I imagine new axle seals are needed, after the suction procedure. Man, just the filter and oil change is pushing $70 not including gasket. I started this hobby with a 1967 Wheel Horse Commando 6 given to me the beginning of last summer. Then the 1211, and since a 1981 Case 210 for blowing snow. I love all the old tractors, accept the Green colored ones. Hope I don't get banned from this sight for having varied allegiances. The Cub is great, and the only hydro I have. Maintaining all this stuff is almost as expensive as my 1970 Roadrunner, but still enjoyable. Thanks again.

Hi all. I took an interest in this thread because I have a '93 1340 and have never changed the hydro oil or the filter. When I bought the tractor in '93, the dealer told me there was no filter provisions and that all I needed to do was keep the oil level up on the transmission. Last year when I bought my new GSX, I started tinkering with the 1340 and found that there is a filter. I changed it and the hydro oil and am now wondering about what's in the axle tubes. I read the write up and viewed the pictures on modifying the rear by adding the drain back holes but am wondering if that's necessary. Couldn't a drain hole be drilled into the bottom of each axle tube and then a threaded plug added? Or maybe a hole in the top of the tube and then use the mity vac or a suction gun to suction out what's in the tube? Or maybe I'm just missing something here. I really don't want to tear the whole rear apart just to add the 2 drain back holes. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks.
Duane

Duane, if you don't want to tear it apart and drill the holes, then just leave it alone.

You can't put a hole in the top, the axle inside will keep you from sucking the oil out. I suppose you could drill a hole in the lower part and thread a plug, but you better guess right on where to put the hole on the first attempt. Axle is pretty thick, and odd shaped. Plus the oil that is in the tubes has no way to circulate back to the rear. Drilling holes in the rear housing allows the oil to circulate.

I guess my concern with putting the drain holes in the center housing was that it then allows any water that's condensed in the axle tubes to drain back into the rearend and contaminate everything in there. That doesn't solve the water problem but creates another. I'd rather remove it from the tubes by draining it off somehow. Tearing apart these little lawnmowers isn't the problem, as I'm usually busy working on much larger equipment. Currently in the barn are Ford 860, Ford 2000, JD750, JD1530, and a JD2355 along with many implements. Now trying to get things ready for spring.
Duane

Trans service
 

Hi all. Follow up question on oil and filter change for the transmission on my 1986 1211. I pulled the rear cover, which was no easy task. Somebody used copious amounts of Red thread locker on all bolts. Changed the filter also. Oil was very clean with only small amount of thicker stuff on the floor of the housing. Filled with 6 qts. and checked. Stick showed overfull. Ran it around a tad, and still showed overfull, just a bit. So much for adding 7 qts, per manual. I noticed when checking for leaks by filter what appears to be a drain plug. Do these transmissions have a drain plug at that point? Will running it maybe 1/4" over the full mark, cause problems. Thanks for any help. Couldn't bring myself to tear into axles after having a hard time getting bolts off and rear cover loose. I'd also like to converse with the Engineer who designed the dipstick/oilfill tube. What a genius!

It doesn't create another water problem. If you work on other equipment, you should know that water condenses in ALL of the internals of an engine or trans. The axle tubes aren't special, or make more water than the center housing does. Also, part of the reason they "make" water is because there is no fluid movement between them and the rear. No circulation. Drilling the holes is a fix, and it does not cause other issues. They should have been there from the factory. They are on most all the larger tractor housings, except the really old ones. They didn't know any better back then I guess, because they were added later.


Yes, there is a drain plug at the front of the housing.

No, running it a little over full won't hurt anything.

Trans oil and filter change
 

Thanks for the quick reply Jonathan. All good news. Wish I had the enthusiasm to tackle the axle tubes. But when a project starts rough, I know from history, somethings are better left as is.

Hey Mo! Welcome. From previous experience, the axle seal likes to leak on the aluminum rear ends. Not a big deal, it's really not difficult to tear into the differentials on these. If you did remove the axle tubes and see what sludge builds up from not being drained, you'd be like :Shocked: The other thing is every time you change the oil it's immediately contaminated when it comes in contact with that nasty stuff on the other side of the wall. Then again I don't know how long you're planning to keep this machine

Just food for thought.