1050 good idea or not
 

Wanted some opinions. I know a couple of you guys have the 1050. I have the opportunity to pick one up at a decent price, everything looks to be there except for some reason the drive shaft is gone and can’t be located. The 3 pin driver and release levers etc are there but disk, plates, drive shaft etc all gone. I looked at the parts breakdown but am worried that it looks specific to this model which was only built in 1989. Should I get it or pass on it? Thanks, Mike

If the price reflects the missing parts and the balance of the tractor is decent, I vote to go get it. You can always part it or resell it if you decide not to mess with it. Seems to me the driveshaft shouldn't be too hard to upgrade to a CV or cushion joint type of driveshaft.

Mike, if the price is decent, pick it up. I'm sure you can use/adapt the older clutches to it. I really like my 1050, but my series of choice is the '82 style tractors, so it fits right in. And... I really like gear drive for garden work. My 1050 is my "go yo" machine for toting a cart, sweeping, plowing, tilling, planting, cultivating and more. I do prefer a hydro for mowing and moving snow though. I added sleeve hitch, creeper, spring assist and narrow front tri-ribs to mine. Soon, the engine will be upgraded to a K321.

Stan, the 1050 is a gear drive. Can't use a CV shaft.

It’s bare bones, no options or anything but barely any rust, everything else is there and side panels, good tires, crappy paint job but over all decent. I was thinking that I could pick up a wide frame clutch/driveshaft asm easier just didn’t know if there was anything special as I see different pieces to this clutch, greasable spacer and throwout bearing plus a weird looking coupler and not familiar with the aluminum gear rear. Didn’t want to reinvent the wheel. It’s $100 so it doesn’t break my rule for non runners but comes close. The M10 feels decent with compression. Thanks for the assist guys.

I would buy it for 100.00, but, not a big smelly but, but there is no way to see if the tranny is any good without the drive shaft.
Does it run? if not...
Then the price is fitty dalla.

All of this talk about buy it, dont buy it a bit subjective since you didn't mention the actual price. What I think it the others here think what a "good" price is cant be measured without seeing what you are seeing. For all I know, you might think $1000 is a good price.

As a note Mike, the aluminum rears are known to have issues with second gear. If you can, see that the rear end is ok. If not, a CI will bolt in, or you can part it. I'm with Lew.... if it doesn't run, missing key parts, I'd get it cheaper.

the coopster needs glasses, just kidding.

My bad.. smacks my wrist.. didn't see that post. Now I say BUY IT!

Everything that's missing is just standard stuff and easy to come by, I have a drive shaft that looks like new that i took out of my 1050, only reason i put the new shaft in mine was because i had already ordered a new one from Jeff before i had it apart.