Best method from stud removal from engine block?
 

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get these two studs out of the block. I have tried vise grips and also using two nuts tightened together at the bottom of the threaded part with a lock washer in between. On every attempt the studs stay firm and the vise grips or nuts just end up slipping. I want to avoid breaking a stud at all cost.

(A) Soak the affected studs with PB Blaster for a day or two.

If that don't bare any results, heat the area with a torch.

Thanks Roland, I'll keep soaking them and then really clamp down the vise grips.

And when we say heat,we mean oyx/act. not a propane torch.
Using a propane torch is like pissing on a barn fire.
Firmly clamp a vice grip to the stud and whack the end of the stud as you try to turn it, after it has been soaking in a penetrating oil as Roland said.
Try first loosing it, then tightening it/ back forth if it ever moves so slightly keeping moving either direction, you don't want to muscle it in a loosing turn or it will surly snap it.
If it becomes necessary to apply heat, then you want to heat around the stud but not on the stud, again working it back/forth and remember a hot stud is softer than a cold stud.

Thanks ol'George, they're out now. I think I just I needed to use more muscle to grip the jaws onto the studs and also grip the studs with the rear part of the vice grip jaws instead of the tip of the jaws. I did move the vise grips back and forth as you instructed me in a previous post. It's now pretty much ready for the machine shop. I'm going to clean the block up with brake cleaner before I take it in. One thing though. I haven't removed the bearing for the crankshaft from the block. It appears to be in good shape and I don't want to damage it by taking it out. I planned on covering both sides of the block where the bearing is seated with plastic and then taping the plastic down with red tuck tape before I take it to the machine shop. What do you think of that idea?

You’re not going to hurt that bearing, they are enormous. Use a brass punch if you have one. Also, looks like your cam cover in still on in the pic. You do want to remove everything from the block so they can clean it good after the boring if you are doing so.

X2 on removing the bearing. Any machine shop that I know of want a completely stripped block. That way there is no chance of contaminating the bearing with grinding swarf.

OK, I don't have a brass punch, but I do have some wooden doweling. I'll try using that to tap it out. Thanks

OK, the bearing taped out nicely. It is firm, rotates freely and smoothly. I think the block is now ready for the machine shop. Next step, I have to obtain the parts. Thank you Alvy and and cubs-n-bxrs for your advice. Much appreciated.