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-   -   Rear PTO rattle (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=57320)

mfeldmann 06-29-2020 10:06 PM

Rear PTO rattle
 
i have a 1772. I removed a rear pto from a 1914 and installed it on my diesel . Now the rear pto rattles like crazy. It didn't make any noise on the 1914. I removed the pto found nothing wrong . The spiral pins are safety wired. They have a little play in them. Nothing major. The pto works ok but sounds terrible with the pto turned on or off. Anyone have the same problem are is there a fix?. I know the diesel will have more driveline vibration compared to gas. I can't imagine it's normal and was sold new like that.

Oak 06-30-2020 08:19 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I had a similar issue on one of my diesels. I bet your holes and or pins are (as we say in the south) wallered out. I often thought about sending one of mine off to Jeff in PA so he could duplicate some parts for us.

I think the rear pto is designed poorly on Cub Cadets. Here are the pieces needed to make the short distance from the rear output shaft to the pto.
Attachment 105132
I often wondered if the holes on that short shaft should be 90* offset but IDK. I also wondered if the pieces could be tightly fit and welded leaving only one roll pin for safety.:bigthink:

Here is the splined coupler that would need to be bored out to 7/8" on one side.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...ing-1-2985.axd
All the other parts are just standard stuff.

Jeff in Pa 06-30-2020 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak (Post 498743)
I had a similar issue on one of my diesels. I bet your holes and or pins are (as we say in the south) wallered out. I often thought about sending one of mine off to Jeff in PA so he could duplicate some parts for us.

I think the rear pto is designed poorly on Cub Cadets. Here are the pieces needed to make the short distance from the rear output shaft to the pto.
Attachment 105132
I often wondered if the holes on that short shaft should be 90* offset but IDK. I also wondered if the pieces could be tightly fit and welded leaving only one roll pin for safety.:bigthink:

Here is the splined coupler that would need to be bored out to 7/8" on one side.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-...ing-1-2985.axd
All the other parts are just standard stuff.


I did one of those PTO for somebody ( don't remember offhand )

I'd "bet a dollar" the reason for having the holes in line is that both can be drilled at the same time without an additional set up ( the 90* turn )

Jeff

ol'George 06-30-2020 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa (Post 498764)
I did one of those PTO for somebody ( don't remember offhand )

I'd "bet a dollar" the reason for having the holes in line is that both can be drilled at the same time without an additional set up ( the 90* turn )

Jeff

Jeff,
now you are thinking like a production engineer, pleasing the bean counters.
( also someone who had cut a chip or two in the past.) :biggrin2:
Whaddayabet that being a low production run, it was possibly jobbed out to a small job shop.
There were many back in the day.

Sam Mac 07-01-2020 11:19 AM

Looking at the design, I would weld the couplers to the shaft so that you only have 1 spirol pin to deal with.


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