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PTO problems:
Hi all. Doing an engine swap. The 12hp just really started to smoke this season, so I got a nice running 341 to do the deed. Figured this would give me time to get the 301 rebuilt, then I'd have 2 motors. Well in swapping parts cause the 341 was on a Wheelhorse, and removing the PTO from my 301, this is what I was faced with. The pics suck but you'll get the idea.
https://postimg.cc/dZ9jpPMf https://postimg.cc/rDZQqkdX The folks at xtremeope.com are out of stock on the 1250/1450/ and 1650 replacements.IS there a way to hobble this through the end of this leaf season? It was working on the 12horse last weekend. I did one pass before I put it in the garage, but now I'm kind of committed to this engine swap and I'm a lil afraid to just put it on like this. https://postimg.cc/rDZQqkdX https://postimg.cc/dZ9jpPMf |
I know folks will probably chew me up for this....But could this broken material be filled in with JBWeld? Smoothed and sanded even with the surrounding disk material? I mean I don't give a crap about the PTO other then I can't buy one right now....I did send the folks at XP a message, but no telling when they will get some in stock.
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Quite normal for the age.
as long as the wiring is not compromised you can use a 2k epoxy like hobby epoxy or some have had success with JD weld but I question the ground metal in it. fill it flush but not over fill it, that will stabilize the coil, no need to sand. While apart check the bearing for roughness, replace if needed, it is a common bearing. If it is not rough turning, you can inject it with light grease using a syringe filled with grease under the seal lip, an old trick that keeps all bearings going for many years. a diabetic syringe is really small but will work, a slightly larger needle is easier to work with like something used for pets. remember to reset your air gap as per manual.:beerchug: |
I'm assuming the issue here is unevenly worn pits in the electric PTO clutch? I don't have a ton of experience with electric clutches. Yes, you COULD fill it in with JB Weld, but the issue is there isn't any telling how long it will last (if it lasts at all).
At the end of the day, and I've seen this said many times before, It's your machine, do what you think seems fit. Also it's good to see someone who already understands the concept of swapping the oil pan over if swapping an engine from a different brand of tractor. They are never the same across brands. Glad it's going into a Cub, they are much more fun than Wheel Horses anyway :biggrin2: Hope you get it working and get that K301 rebuilt too :beerchug: |
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I have several and have done several for others that have lasted many years. :beerchug: |
George, I didn't think of the "metal" content of JBweld....I'm not thinking that good with a magnet. You mentioned "hobby epoxy", but I'm not sure what you're talking about exactly. I looked it up, and the links are all over the place. Do you have a specific name for this epoxy? I'm just worried the chunks that are out completely will catch and everything gets yanked out. Or is there a type of JB weld that would work best these people that did have luck used?
It just sucks I need this machine right now, and this poor pto. Specially since it's mowing leaves. Lot more strain on it now then during the cutting season. |
Smear it full of black silicone sealer.
It's what I did and they work fine. |
Blades will not stay engaged when i let go of the switch
I have 1215 cub cadet mod# 138221100, i put in a new 20.00 pto switch. But it still shuts the blades off when i let the switch go. I have owned it for 4 years an never had a problem. Please help, thank you
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:American Flag 1:
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You are just stabilizing the windings from vibration more than anything. For many years ford alternator rotor windings were kept from rotating in the pole pieces with epoxy. we built 15,000 per day back then. In your application nothing is going to ever rotate, just statically used as an induction coil, No worries. give it 24 hour cure time and use it.:beerchug: |
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