129 won't start
 

Cranks ok at first, then gradually slower. Just took the battery over to the local auto parts store to be checked. They claim it's fully charged, etc. and yet, immediatly after trying to start the tractor, everytime I hook my charger back on, the reading goes back up to 6-7 as opposed to 2-3 if I leave it on for a few minutes. Petcock is open and everything else should be fine. Last time it ran was late September. The entire electrical system is only a few years old. Any suggestions?

If the battery truly is fully charged and the starter is functioning properly, then the only other thing is the wiring between the battery and starter.

If you have a high resistance connection in the starter circuit, it could produce the symptoms you describe. It will get hot when you try to start it and the more you try to start it, the hotter it will get. As it gets hotter, it's resistance will increase.

After you try to start it, check for warm cables and/or connections. All your connections need to be clean, bright and tight for best electrical performance. Don't forget the ground side too.

Assuming that your battery cables are properly sized.

Connections all seem good - don't notice anything getting warm. I still suspect the battery. Will check to make sure the gas line to the carb is working. So weird being that it worked fine the last time I used it. ACR certainly comes to mind as well I suppose.

It's cold and that affects the starting of cubs, especially the hydrostats. Keep in mind not only are you trying to turn over the oil, but also the hydrostatic fluid that is thicker due to the colder temps. Put a deep cycle charge on your battery overnight. Add some fresh fuel to your tank and then put a little fresh fuel in a small squirt bottle. Carefully, with the key turned off, squirt a small amount of fuel into the carb and with a full charge on your battery, crank it over. Be sure not to put too much fuel in the carb and then replace the filter and cover on it. After a couple of tries, that should get you up and running.

Cub Cadet 123

Yeah...I think it was just being balky. After a few more tries, started up fine. Now that I no longer use it to plow snow, it doesn't run all winter so figured it's not a bad idea to get it running for a few minutes. I had added some stabil to the tank so good to circulate that through the system. I still do think that the battery was not fully charged or else not holding a charge. I had it on the charger a few more hours today before attempting another start.

Thanks....hadn't thought about the increased thickness of the trans fluid in the cold temps.

I'm glad you got your Cub running. As mentioned, the severe cold really puts a strain on all the components, till things get warmed up.
I'm a huge fan of 0W-30 for my winter Cubs.
(not trying to get into an oil war) :beatdeadhorse: :biggrin2:

Any way this is just my Opinion, so take it like a grain of salt. Again, not trying to start a debate. That being said, after several bad out comes with STABIL, I will not ever use it again, or ever recommend it's use. Short term again, my opinion here, you're OK. But don't use it for long term storage. I had it happen 2 times to where all the STABIL, separated from the gas, and went to the bottom of the tanks
(2 different generators) and turn into red jelly that completely clogged the carbs up. Again, YMMV I know a lot of people here use Startron, I've read great things about it.

I'm a K100 user, just love the stuff. It's works wonders most times on a gummed up carb on my old Homelites I pickup, that don't start. :beerchug:.

I was talking to my local CC 3rd generation dealer he said for me try using a dip stick oil heater. Hadnt thought about it before because temps were mid 30s,(started ok)now teens and 20s little harder to turn over fast enough. He said it will help. I bought one from NAPA but havent used it just keep a battery maintainer hooked up.

Magnetic heater for the bottom of the oil pan.
That is unless the pan is aluminum. Will work on Hydros as well, just stick 'em on and plug 'em in!

I stick the dipstick in the my rear end, always works.
If you want a picture let me know

One can always use a 100W heat lamp and place it near the crankcase.