A 1572 found me
 

So I already have an 1872 that I pulled out of a friends field and fixed up and repowered with a CH18. It came with a 40c mower deck and 42 inch snow thrower and I also added the power angle plow to it. It has been doing great and I have not really been in the market for anything else.
Well another friend knows I fixed up the 1872 and knew someone with an old Cub Cadet that sat in a shed unused for years and they were looking to clean out and downsize their home. He first said it was a 1512 but when I got there I found it was a 1572 with a 60" deck.
It currently has 1256 hours on the clock and it is well used. I am finding many missing or loose fasteners. The engine did start with a fresh battery in it but ran rough. I have already checked the valves and several were loose and one was tight. I am keeping my fingers crossed that it did not burn a valve. Or is that even an issue with a diesel.....
Other then a full service of fluids and filters it needs:
- Driveshaft repaired. It is very loose at the pump.
- All fuel/coolant hoses replaced. They are very brittle. Belts look fairly new though.
- Trace down a draw on the battery.
- A few other little repairs, fix battery terminal, light switch, rear lights, etc
Future upgrades:
- Rear axle brace and trans cover from extreme and add axle carrier drain hole while I am in there
- Gear reduction starter and glow plug upgrade with relay
Questions:
- I can't find radiator hoses for it. Has anyone figured out a workaround for this?
- Fuel lines look like 1/4" but the return connection at the injectors is a bit small, probably 5mm so the 1/4" slides on a bit loose. Is it SOP to just clamp down on it?
- I ordered the head cover gasket from Messicks (only place I could find it) but it seems like it would fit a 2 cyl better. Is it normal to have to stretch it out? I ordered part 15841-14520 which I think is right. I will double check the bag, maybe the picked the wrong part.
- Are there any leading suspects to check for the battery draw? I was thinking I would start with the key switch and voltage regulator.

Thanks. Brian.

Welcome Brian, good find on the 1572. I've owned mine as original owner since 1987. It has served me fine with few problems. I visit a lot of the sponsors for kubota parts. I also use https://www.m-and-d.com for many Kubota parts as well. For example the head cover gasket you are looking for is listed there as KUB-15841-14520 with a good price.

For the upper hose, take a look at this link on this forum. It details using a Kubota RTV utility vehicle hose, part number K7311-85150 and cutting off a piece to make it work. https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ght=upper+hose

As for the lower hose, I have no leads.

The current draw could be hard to find, especially if the wiring was "modified" by a previous owner. In its' original state, the power from +12V from the battery just goes to the starter solenoid then through a circuit breaker and an ammeter on its way to the key switch and voltage regulator. There could also be a short circuit in the wiring harness as it goes to the ammeter. I had a short in mine from the top screw that attaches the plastic dash on the right side at the top.

You may want to hook up an ammeter and simply measure to what the draw is and go from there.

Yes to the upper hose. That's for a Kubota RTV500, so you just have to cut the one end off, as Frank Mentioned.
Messicks has 2 of them in stock, if you don't have a Kubota shop nearby.
Link for you. https://www.messicks.com/part/k7311-...ose-water-uppe
As far as the lower hose goes you can use this hose for it,
that's made by GATES. Just measure your I.D. and the length
you need. HTH :beerchug:
Link to the GATES hose PDF. http://www.plazafleetparts.com/uploa..._selection.pdf

Thanks for the info Frank and Bryan.

I swear I searched for the radiator hose info but did not find that one about the RTV hose. Thanks for pointing it out. I will order it and give it a try. I might be able to get by with the lower one for now. But with the upper it seems any time I touch it a leak started where it attaches to the engine side. And I bet it has been doing that for a while, because that thing looks like it has been tightened to within an inch of it's life!

On the head cover I have part 15841-14520 that I ordered from Messicks, but it is way to small. I checked the package and the number on it matches what I ordered. I'll call Messicks and see if it is possible the wrong gasket was put in the package.

The electric issues can be fun to tackle. The PO did not make to many changes, just a failed switch was bypassed if you know what I mean. I have the wiring diagram so I will just go through it methodically. I will start with the key switch, I have had them fail in the past were they built up corrosion and "leaked" voltage.

Thanks again for the input.
Brian

Here is some good reading for you. This is my 1572 that was restored by Diesel Doctor.

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=54076

Brian, I wanted to post this info on hoses last nigh,t but had to get to bed to go pick up the 1250 I bought in NY.
You can go this route as well, though you do it in pieces if you have a bed or 2.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...=3COOLHOSETYPE

Also a good source for the FACET Low Pressure Fuel pumps and the filter that screws into the fuel pump, don't forget the filter like I did.
Had to send an email with the filter number but they added it to my order, great to deal with.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ad...tegoryID=FACET :beerchug:

Thanks for all the great information folks! Parts (and time) are a little slow to materialize but I am getting there. Got a chance to splash some water on her and it really did clean up pretty good. I'll add more pictures later.
- I traced the power draw to the voltage regulator and have one on order.
- I think I have all the fasteners replaced/tight so that is good to go.
- After replacing the fuel lines the lift pump quit on me so I picked up part # 12585-52031 on line. It looked just like the old pump but with a different connector. I rigged up temporary wiring patch just to make sure it worked and then changed the connectors over to match the original.
- Braces and new rear cover are on order from extreme motor works. Will do hydro fluid/filter axle housing drains at that point. The gaskets for the rear seem like they are stuck in the Suez canal or something. I may just have to use RTV. I am thinking the Auto Trans RTV would be a good match. Is this a good choice?
- I have a new bushing for the drive shaft that I hope will take care of the slop at the rear of the shaft. Long term though I would like to put a CV shaft in it so I am keeping an eye out for one. I don't want to run it much until it runs smoother, with that overrun clutch it really vibrates.

Thanks again for all the great info. I am really looking forward to using this machine!
Brian.

As promised here are some pictures of it cleaned up a little bit and my setup for moving the engine a little bit to get the driveshaft out. The coupler at the pump side is very worn. I am going to just go right to a CV shaft and eliminate the clutch.

That is the best way to go. That also makes it easier to service in the future. An example would be replacing the belt for the water pump and alternator.

Just a quick update. I have been having an issue with the engine falling flat and stalling if under a load. Been happening more often lately. I notice the valve on the filter housing is askew, as if it took a hit. Looking closer I noticed tiny air bubbles in the filter. My guess is they would combine in the pump and cause the loss of power. I went back and looked at the full size pictures from when I first cleaned it up and it was like that when I got it.
I made sure the tank was clean and replaced everything from the tank to the engine and now it is running better then it ever has for me.