CC 149 Winter Projects.
 

With temps getting down to minus 29F or minus 34C, it seemed like a good time for some shop work. I have a list of fairly major to minor projects lined up to do to the CC 149. It's been plugging away without much love for a couple of years.



Some of the things I have to do are build a grill (started today). Fix or replace the exhaust and route it underneath and toward the back. Pinch the front axle mount to take the slop out. Put thrust bearings on the steering knuckles. Put a thrust bearing on the Ross steering box and reset the follower. Replace one or two steering link ball studs. Change out the lights for LED's. Get rid of all the rattles in the hood and related mounting features. Do some fiberglass repair on the dash. Paint the fender pan, hood, dash tower and hood/ grill support.



And I just got in a three spool valve to add more circuits to the hydraulics.



When I added a hydraulic pump to the front, it interfered with the pristine factory grill so I decided not butcher it. it's been running with no grill for a few years, so it's time.

I had to space the mesh out about an inch because of hydraulic hose interference. This is the upper grill. I'll build a lower grill as well, but it also will be a shield for the hydraulic pump.

Only thing to do is shop projects this time of year.
Gotta love winter. NOT. We are right there with ya. 28 below this
morning and projected - 38 tonight and tomorrow. Without the wind.
Stay safe, enjoy the shop time.

Ken

I do have two questions which might stir some controversy. I was just googling around about putting thrust bearings on the steering knuckles and there seemed to be every where from "don't do it moron" to "it's awesome" and everything in between. I do have a FEL on the tractor.

Anybody have real world experience to share?

Slowly chugging away over the past couple of days mostly disassembling and scraping off the first layer of dirt. With the loader off and the engine out, getting at stuff is much easier. The axle channel needed a little squeeze to get the 1/16" play out of there in the first move to tighten up the steering play. Some pressure with a 5/8" bolt through the pin hole and some moderate taps with a big hammer on the flange close to the frame rails pretty quick resulted in a light friction fit.

I'll replace the four ball stud joints on the linkages with Heim joints.

I'd really like to replace the roller balls and cups in the steering box but the cheapest shipping I can find to Canada is $55 for the $22 parts. In Canadian pesos that's over a hundred bucks! Some research indicates that the JD 110 has the same box and I do have a JD :bigeyes: farm dealer in town. Does anybody know that for sure?

Forgot to add the pics

Ambush, here is a link to JD110 Service Manual, maybe it'll help.
Check Section 70....
http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/man...20(Jan-74).pdf

Thanks Ironman. But I guess I need to know if they are the same physically and a JD part number (which I may have already).

I did a complete tear down, of a MF10 last winter and used your paint formula with Tremclad, Magic catalyst and Xylene. I was really impressed how well that worked and I'll definitely be doing the same on this Cub! Thanks for that tip!

JD parts...
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/...on/pgId/218343

Thanks again Ironman, I appreciate the help!
I’m not sure that’s the same because they only show and list as needing one “washer” which I’m assuming is the bearing race. And they sell the balls individually. I’m going to just buy bearing balls at a local supplier.

Today was spent stripping more stuff off and making a list of repairs and parts.
Tomorrow I’ll take the weights and tires off. The tires are fluid filled so not that easy to manhandle, but they do roll :)

Then I guess I’ll just start the unpleasant grind of cleaning everything up. I split the tractor last winter to go through the hydro and change the cork gasket, so I’m not going to pull it out this time around.