wiring mess
 

I am currently working on a 1282 for a friends grandson who had it given to him , The previous owner had butchered the wiring harness beyond belief but I finally sorted enough stuff out where I got power to the coil and it will start and run. The problem I am struggling with is the 5 terminal ignition switch does not correspond with the wiring diagram and I believe the switch is an aftermarket version I would like to make the charging system work also but do not know where to lay the wire down coming back from the voltage regulator. Can it be tied with the 12v feeding the switch ? I have an unknown terminal on the switch but I don't see any way it ties back to the battery to charge it. I tested the switch and identified the 12 v in lug, the coil power lug, the headlight lug and the start lug but the 5th lug doesn't seem to go to anything ? :bigthink:

That unknown terminal could possibly be for ground to kill ignition when shutting off, maybe. I don't see any grounding on the 1282 wiring diagram.

I think you need the proper switch to route the alternator in the network based on the key switch legend provided on the wiring diagram from ccpartsnmore.com.

I agree ,but not an option The kid has no funds for anything ! how does this normally get back to the battery ? it has to go back through an existing wire coming from the battery ? does the "B" center terminal have 12v power supply going to it ? The original harness plug on the back of the switch was cut off so it is not possible to know if any wires were laid together originally as I have no similar system to verify. this switch has one terminal on top and 4 below with 2 on the left of center and 2 on the right of center, I just don't want to lay the wire returning from the regulator on a wrong terminal and fry the regulator. Is it possible to route this wire directly to the positive side of the amp gauge ? thanks for the input !

I see there are two wire schematics for 1282's dependent on s/'s
but in either case the key switch truth table shows the B and R terminals of the switch
connected when the key is in the run position, and open when it is off.
If you don't have that connection, it ain't gonna charge.
If you hot wire it, it will charge but will likely kill the battery when the tractor is sitting idle.
Check the key switch for B+R when on, B-R when off.
https://www.ccpartsnmore.com/cub-cad...ing-schematics

this is clear.

Yes ,the wiring diagrams are clear , but when the harness has been cut,spliced and some things bypassed or eliminated along with a non stock key switch the diagram is not able to be followed very far , anyway I figured it out and it runs, charges , and didn't burst into flames ! thanks for the input !:beerchug: