1450 Transmission Question
 

I finally got enough nerve today to crack open the rear cover from the transmission and drain all the oil out. When I did just that this is what I found.

It appears that some previous owner did something to this transmission which nobody will ever know what it was. Anyway two of the threaded holes in which the cover bolts into on the transmission have been broken away (indicated by the red boxes). In the blue box someone has drilled a new hole and added threads and put in a new much smaller bolt that was too long to even screw the bolt down into (the bolt was longer than the hole). In fact part of the screw hole actually went through the cast.

In the interest of not having this torn apart in the middle of the garage for a long period of time I redid what I undid and put in a new liquid gasket. I'd like to fix this right. Do I need a new transmission or is there some cheaper way to resolve this issue beyond a liquid gasket?

The entire cover was plastered on with liquid gasket and there might of even been a prayer. I didn't realize (until now) how blurry the camera phone shot is but I think it delivers the idea enough to go ahead and post it.

Also when I removed the filter nothing dripped down into the oil pan under the tractor like I would of expected. Is this normal if I drain all the fluid out of the rear end first or should something have spilled down when I removed the filter? There was some oil in the filter (perhaps two tablespoons) but not what I would expect to see.

I know the saga on this one will continue...

That is something of a sticky wicket.

Fix it right... I understand anyones desire to have a dependable, good running no problems Cub, a tractor that you can climb onto at any given time, fire it up and do some work with.

In this situation, the only real job that that the rear cover does is to keep the fluid in and keep contaminants out. If you can successfully accomplish this, then I believe that it, for the most part, is fixed right. This is providing that the hitch will bolt on and be strong enough to it's job and the transmission has no mechanical problems.

If this tractor was mine, I would button it back up, using whatever means necessary to keep it from leaking (providing that you don't get a bunch of sealer on the inside of the case that could end up being sucked up into the pump) and use it as you normally would. In the mean time, I would keep an eye out for another (reasonably priced) rear end. Once acquired I would clean the new rear end, maybe paint it, and get it ready for installation. Should you find a period of time when the tractor is not in use, you could then remove and replace the damaged rear end at your leisure. Or keep the new rear end handy for a quick change just in case the original shows signs of problems.

The best I know is that the only other alternative you have is to try to find a replacement and change it out right now. These rear ends can be found, often times for a little of nothing, but that never seems to be the case when you need it right now...

Good luck with whatever you decide.

There is another option....
http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm#hi

Broke out holes....
 

I would use the Indian Head gasket sealer as you read in my thread "IH 71 gearoil change". Along with a new gasket, you maybe better than off than you were. I dont believe that a guy could build up those broken spots with a welder and re-do them. I'am no welder. I would be looking for another rearend, like what Y.Sam had suggusted!

Thanks
 

I'm going to look into this Indian Head Gasket Sealer item in the near future. In the interest of getting it moved we put the blue RV stuff back in there. For now it does not appear to be leaking but I'll park over a white towel next time I take it out.

Still I don't like this fix and I might just have to look for a replacement. I just needed to know if I have to replace the entire back end or what exactly needs to be replaced.

Anyway I guess I'll be checking the fluid level back there on a very regular basis to see if I can add some. I think I'll focus more on the motor now.

As far as the helicoil goes...that sounds like something that might work if you had a hole to fill. In this case I have a chunk of the housing missing in two places. The tow bar is gone and wasn't on there when I bought it. I have no intentions of towing anything with it though. I have an old Murray that I re-powered recently that does the job good. This guy is for playing in the snow and wood chip pile and whatever else comes my way.

Not having the hitch on it is probably what broke the housing in the first place. The three bolts that go through the hitch are a little longer than the other four. When you tighten the longer bolts down onto the other holes, or don't put the hitch back on, they are long enough to bottom out in the hole and break the casting.

I realize that having broken holes in your rear end isn't as cool as if they weren't broken. Seriously, all the cover does is keep the fluid in. If it's doing that, then you are worrying for no real reason. I think I can speak for everyone here when I say; we won't tell anyone that your rear end is broken and if it doesn't leak it will probably never give you any trouble.

All you really need is an empty housing, HOWEVER I think that buying an empty housing and transferring parts is a colossal waste of time. You don't actually need a pump (transmission) you just need the rear end. I think most often you find them for sale all together. Take your time and look around, someone will have a good one for $25.00 to $50.00. You can switch them out later.

And with that being said, don't junk the internals from that one when you replace it...there's people out there that can use the axles, carrier, pinion shaft, carrier shims, etc...

Thanks...but wait there's more!
 

Thanks guys. I won't toss anything if/when I change it out. I just got this and it is not leaking now. I suspect that could change but for now I'm off on new challenges.

Maybe this ought to be a new thread but...

I can't get to the engine because I can't get the side panels off. I suspect that I can't get the side panels off because the FEL is in the way. How do the side panels attach at the bottom? I've taken one bolt out under the instrument panel however I can't figure out how they attach below. Do they flip out and then come off or how does that work?

I don't want to take apart more of the FEL than I have to and I fear that the brackets that were used to stabilize the FEL are bolted on with a bolt and nut to the frame under the panels. The trouble is the nut is not reachable as far as I can tell. I know it had to be put on there somehow so next weekend I'll jack it up and see if I can see up inside there.

Yes the side panels have to be leaned outwards and pulled out. There is a lip that catches on the top of the frame to hold it in place. On the left side push the brake pedal down and set the arm to hold it in place. That helps the left side to come out easier. I am pretty sure the FEL might cause a problem with the panel removal.

Side Pannels
 

Well I finally got under the thing and was able to see one of the bolts I was worried about was looking like it was welded to the frame. I took a risk and removed the bolt and I was right. I was able to get one panel off and I'll work on the other tomorrow. Still no luck finding the engine oil filter. I'm starting to think there isn't one.

I checked the rear end plate for leaks and of course it was still leaking. I guess I'll be adding oil every time I use it until I can get a replacement rear end.

The saga continues...