Any snowthrower tips?
 

I have been using a 1971 Sears SS12 that my father purchased new, for the last 6 years. She's done a great job, but after using manual front and rear blades last winter in both 24+" snow storms, I went looking for a tractor with hydraulics. I found my 1450 for 400 bucks with a 54" blade and 50" mowing deck. The 1450 didn't run, but had the optional front hydraulic ports. After removing the gas tank, cleaning it out and removing the carb and cleaning it, she came to life. I have since purchased a 3 point, brinly sleeve hitch and QA36A snowthrower. I have never owned a snowthrower or snowblower. Do you guys have any tips for upgrading or the operation of the snowthrower? I know I need to check the area for any "foreign objects". (I watched a neighbor swallow a frozen newspaper with a walk behind snowblower, wasn't a pretty sight! I ended up dismantling it, removing the newspaper and hammering the sheetmetal back in place). Any spare parts that I should have on hand other than the drive belt? Just trying to be prepared for this winter.
Thanks

This may help you also........ Owners Manual

I will be using my QA36 on the 125 for the first time this season too and would also appreciate any tips.

Run at wide open throttle, and set the tractor's speed such that the engine is tugging on the governor but not losing RPM. The snowthrower works best when it is full of snow, and that is the way to keep it full. This will result in you going kind of fast if the snow is very light or the accumulation is small.

I also check the belt tension before every use, and I grease the chain and all other grease fittings every 3rd use or so.

Now that I have obtained the QA36A, I have the chance to obtain a 42" snowthrower. Will the 1450 handle a 42" snowthrower? (seems like once you get started on attachments, the sellers have all kinds of stuff)!

Yes, but you will probably have to go a bit slower if the snow is deep and wet. Those 'wet cement' snows are horrible...I have nearly stalled the 18 hp engine on my 782 with my QA-36A on several occasions.

My 450 swallowed a peice of firewood a neighbor pushed into the road with his plow last winter. I wasn't real happy. No serious damage done but it took me 1/2 an hour to get it out with out dismantleing the blower.

Tips#1 SAFETY 1ST. THESE ARE POWERFUL MACHINES AND CAN HURT YOU BAD IF YOUR NOT CAREFUL. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS ANYWHERE NEAR A RUNNING SNOW BLOWER. This may seem obvious but it's easy to get lazy when your out in the cold and the wet snow/slush has clogged the chute for the upteenth time. Don't do it. Turn off both the blower AND the tractor before attempting to clear the chute. I carry a very large screwdriver or a piece of furring strip 18"-24" long to pry frozen slush out of the second stage and chute. This stuff will clog it up. That's really the blowers main weakness.

#2 Safety again, Always be aware where the chute is pointed. Just like a gun. Know where the muzzle is pointed at all times and be aware these things can throw stuff with a lot of force. My 450 under the right conditions will throw snow well over 60ft! Never blow snow in the direction of people.

#3 Always blow downwind if at all possible. Work smarter not harder.

#4 Spray them down with PAM or Wd40 inside before use. Helps keep the snow from sticking.

#5 On gravel drives raise the blower with the skids about an inch to keep from sucking up rocks.

#6 Drift cutters can be a huge help. Often the snow is deeper than the blower. Drive into it and knock it down. Back up and then go forward again to blow the snow. Some times you'll do this the entire job over and over.

#7 Don't beat up the equipment. These things work well but be patient. Moving snow is hard work for you and the tractor. Don't try to force it. The tractor will tell you the right speed if you listen to it.

#8 Dress warm. You will get covered in snow. Clearing the drive aint worth hypothermia.

#9 Make sure you are seen. Most of us do alot of this work at night. Make sure you have lights and reflectors. Reflective tape is inexpensive and makes it easy to outline the rig so peaple can Identify that thing in the headlights.

#10 Use your head, Be aware of the equipment and what is going on around you. Where people are cars ect. This is just everyday tractor sense.

#11 You will need wheel weight and tire chains.

#12 One more. Go to the dealer and get at least one change of shear pins for your specifc snowblower. 2 changes is better. If you have them you won't need them. But if you don't you will. Bolts instead of shear pins can cause serious damage if they don't snap when they are supposed to.

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Enjoy the ride! Moving sbnow can be very satisfiying. Let it snow, let it snow let it snow!

I haven't seen snow like that since the big blizzard in the mid 70's here in Kentucky. Anymore we just get ice and 3 to maybe 6 inches of snow at most. Looks like those machines do a great job saving your back. My tractor ends up doing more limb hauling for the burn pile after an ice storm.

I remember those 2 winters. '76 we got 36"s on top of about 20+. '77 the Ohio froze solid. I grew up across the river from Lousville. I've got family all over KY. I' back thet way fairly regularly. The '77 deep freeze I was backpacking in Red River Gorge. It was -14 degrees. we had a blast and big campfires!Last winter here was probaly worse than '76. we got at least 4 snows of 24" or more and it just kept stacking up. Several smaller snows as well. It was a record breaker. My super kept the whole street dug out and the 1/2 mile long road. The norm here is much like Ky. more sleet and ice than snow.

The manual does not mention shear pins for the QA 36/42. Is belt slippage the only thing to stop one of these when it clogs?