K321A Valve timing question
 

Pulled my k321a, 14 horse, apart last weekend, removed the grenade gears. I ended up having to pull the crank out to get the inside gear out. I noted the cam/crank timing marks before pulling it, verified the manual that I was looking at the correct marking.

Put it all back together, hit the key on what was a great running, easy starting machine.... and now it is very hard to start. Have to give generous choke with minimal throttle and then sometimes it catches an keeps running, but only at idle or just above. Won't start at 1/4 throttle or higher, or run that high.

Any acceleration results in missing, and when its running at a slightly higher idle, is only hitting 60-75% of the time. Sounds like an old hit and miss engine.

So, my immediate fear is that I made a mistake on the cam timing.

I pulled the plug, spun it to top dead center, compression stroke and watched the points and the timing mark. At top dead the S mark is in the window and the points are opening.( i know, they may be actually opening a few degrees before TDC) Is that enough to put to rest my fear of a cam/crank timing issue?

This was my first Kohler, but not my first engine, small or large. I wouldn't mind tearing it apart again.....

Good news, the inside of the engine is really nice, clean and although I didn't mike any tolerances, I did not see much wear.

Check out this link for Matt's suggestion on static timing. It works perfectly. The idea is to get the points to "just" start opening when the "S" is in the window. you won't be able to see it with your eyes, thus the need for a VOM meter.

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

Thank you DX3,

Am I safe to assume, if the timing is on or close, then the cam/crank timing is correct?

If so, then I'm simply chasing a carb problem.

Rotate the engine to TDC with the head off and rock it back and forth. The valves will either not move at all or will rock slightly as you wiggle the crankshaft. If they wiggle and one valve is open more than the other, then you are probably off a tooth on the cam.

Thanks Matt, I've give that a look.

Trying to download your linked doc now.

Ok, quick update.

Short answer.... OOps, Ignition needs a capacitor tied to the coil to operate properly.

Long answer, valve timing check thru breater filter resulted in valve clearance on both valves at TDC, and it was upon removing the carb that I noticed the capacitor wire hanging there.
I did the timing set per Matt's doc, set the carb settings back to where I originally had them, hit the key and it sat there idling and runs great.

Thanks for all the help guys!