I'm adding one hydraulic circuit
 

I have obtained the complete single hydraulic set up off a 1450. I intend to mount the control valve on the left fender and run the circuit to the rear with the lift cylinder being mounted to raise and lower the sleeve hitch so I can use both the front and rear blades. I'll keep good records and post my progress as I get the system installed.

Looking forward to the progress, good luck with it:beerchug:

CD,
You got me confused. Do you have a 3 point on the back already? Why do need a cyclinder on the rear of the tractor? Why don't you just a dual control valve?

On edit. Do you want the rear blade to work seperate from the front implement? Then I got it. I think the front lifts up and the rear goes down already. You might want to check that. Also do you have a lock out pin for the float?

I think he is wanting separate control of front implements and rear implements at the same time.

Yes, I need seperate control of the front and rear attachments. I need the rear blade to pull the snow from in front of objects I can't get behing to push the snow, (garage doors, etc.). Right now they work together. I have factory dual hydraulics, but intend on obtaining the blade angling kit. As I'm splitting the front hydraulics, I'd need a valve to lock out the front of rear hydraulics, otherwise the front blade would angle when I used the rear blade. I figure I can install a complete single hydraulic circuit for the rear using the factory control valve. Hardest part should be quick disconnects on both sides of the control valve so I can remove the fender pan. The company that supplies our hydraulic fittings, etc. at work told me to bring the tractor in once I have desided where I want to mount the control valve. I want to use tubing on as much of the system as possible. I'm thinging the tubing will be easier to keep in place along the frame rails. I'm not crazy about mounting the control valve on the fender, but the only other option I see is removing the plate where the shifter would be on a gear drive and mounting it on top of the tranny. Then the cooling fan might be a problem.

CD,
Just double check but if you lower the front the rear goes up and vise versa. Can't remember. :bigthink:

John Deere had a 3 spool set up on some of their 140s. May be you can fab a 3 spool set up to work in your Cub????

I would use hose over tubing anyday. You going to need some hose in the system by the hydraulic cylinder.

Yes, I agree about the hose. I'll probably hard pipe, (tubing), as much as I can and try to place the quick disconnects under the tunnel cover for ease of access so the fender pan can be removed.

I saw a JD 140 valve on ebay. That is a good idea! good luck with it.

Hope your project goes well! That is one thing I will be after is a hydro. set-up! Keep us posted please!