Bill, I have recently aquired a running 1650 with bad iso mounts that I ordered from the dealer today at a cost of $80bucks for the iso mounts, and $30bucks for the snubbers. This will have all the rubber replaced for the engine mounting. Alot of the guys here say it is a must to have your engine cradle braced. Fortunately for me I got one already welded up this past Saturday when I bought a new front axle for mine. Like you, I too am a WheelHorse person. I have 21 years invested in WheelHorse ownership. I love those little red tractors. However I always wanted a Cub Cadet, so about a month ago, one followed me home.
Here are some things you will need to look for when sizing up the overall condition of your 1650;
Look for the serial number. There was a break somewhere around 623,000 where those below that number had 3/4" front axle spindles, and numbers greater than had 1" diameter axles in the front. The serial number on mine is 565,370 which means I had the smaller spindles. The left front wheel bearings were completely trashed, and the spindle was ruined. Fortunately one of the members here offered to sell me a complete axle, 1" spindles, steering linkage, and wheels with tires for a hundred dollars, so that save me alot of pain making the necessary repairs to the front end. Also you need to check the axle for excessive play in the pivot pin area. If the PO did not grease the pivot pin, then the axle can be damaged. Check the king pin bushings where the spindles bolt on to the axle. They seem to easily wear ou there if not greased frequently due to the weight of the tractor with the big K341 Kohler engine pressing down on the front end. BTW, the 1650 may not be built like a tank, but it certainly is built like a tractor (heavy). Oh, and if your king pin area is really worn out, then replacing the bushing may not fix the problem, as the hole in the axle may be wallowed out, so you may be looking at replacing the whole assembly like I did. Check where the pivot pin passes through the chassis for excessive welds, like in the case of a botched repair to that area. From there on out look for bad wiring repairs, worn steering shaft where it passes through the dash, cracks in the body panels, bent or twisted parts of the mule drive system, oil leaks, missing parts, other signs of neglect and misuse.
Sounds to me though like it is definetly worth $300, even as a parts tractor to have as a spare to a better one you buy already running. Oh yeah, on the subject of front wheels, bearings are $28dollars each, and you will need two for each wheel.
OK, I hope this has been a help to you. Good luck
Van