Quote:
Originally Posted by MWShaw
Hopefully it's over?
I am a little concerned that it does not hold more than 10PSI of oil pressure when it gets to full operating temperature.
At cold start up it hits 50psi, and slowly falls as the engine warms up. It levels out at 10. Not sure why that would be, I triple checked the oil pressure relief valve numbers, when I milled the closure plate. The rod / main bearing clearances where all well within spec. The rods were on the high side of the limit, but still well within.
I keep telling myself its an air cooled twin, not an EFI modern liquid cooled motor.
It runs good, RPMs still hunt around a little at full throttle, but once the PTO engages they level out.
For now the plan is to run it. I never listed the MAG20 from the 2072, for sale just in case this KT didn't pan out. As of now, the MAG20 will be hanging around.
I do not have a tool to cut that open, I need to find one. Maybe Grainger.
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I think the important thing is you are getting/circulating oil, as you have found out what happened when you didn’t.
IIRR you didn't replace the 2 main crank bearings, so a little will be lost there as well as the bearing less cam in the block.
On a new engine, I would like to see higher pressures hot but not on something that has some hours on it.
The relief valve really doesn’t come into play till more flow that can be circulated through the system is achieved.
Then the spring/ball allows the excess flow to be bypassed to the sump, as you know.
The #50 cold pressure shows the relief is in the ballpark.
A good design doesn’t over-pump the needed volume of oil as it is just wasted H.P.
Admittedly A small engine like this it is negligible.
A little extra clearance allows good flow and added cooling in the bearing areas.
Just me $.02