Quote:
Originally Posted by MWShaw
Seeing as how the skematic images I posted, are supposed to be for the H42 and the H48, I would think you should have the 3/16 key at the spocket end also? Funny thing, mine has a 3/8-16 set screw drilled and tapped, right above the key on the sprocket end of the driveshaft. (It is not shown in the skematic?)I guess maybe it's some a previous owner added, but why is the jam nut on that backing off also?
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The tapped hole for the set screw is on mine to. Opposite the grease fitting nut on the universal joint at the gear box end. I don't remember there being a set screw in there when I got it, it could be a part that fit some other models and it was just easier for production to make it truly a universal part. But as of right now, I don't have the parallel key in it either. I just plan to use that part of the system as the shear point.
That being said, I did decide to put a new grade 2 bolt in the shear pin hole today and to my absolute amazement it worked perfectly the whole 1hr+ I used it. What I did differently was tighten it down like I had read elsewhere should be done. I guess it held the extra movement at bay long enough that it didn't hammer the bolt in two.
Also, just for the record, I used a 1/4" grade 2 bolt that was 2 1/2 inches long with a regular washer on the bolt end and a nylon lock nut on the either side. I ran out of the 2" ones, but maybe that is why it held together better. With the 2 1/2" long bolt 2/3rds of the shank is unthreaded. All that is threaded sticks out the other side. Could that little bit of extra metal give it some added strength? In effect, the actually part of the bolt being stressed then resembles your legitimate shear pins above. I'm going to have to go and dig through the broken bolts to see where they break off. Anyway, at this point I'm up and running and interestingly enough, by the end of the day the belt was what was slipping in the heavy stuff.
Hope the battle is improving on your end.