After reading the thread I can add a little info, and a couple of things to check.
First, the bearing on the crank has a sir clip on the ID. That must be set flush to the end of the crank. If the basket (Starter pulley On the crank) is set to far forward you won't be able to set that bearing back far enough.
Next, I can tell you that on the last two friction discs I got from Cub Cadet, that they needed to be fitted to the basket to prevent breaking the ears off, and allow the PTO pulley to set all the way back. Yours looks to be deep enough in the basket, but it's worth a look. Take the friction disc out of the PTO, and place it into the basket being sure its going all the way back without binding. If it binds figure out which ear is too long and sand it down.
Another way to verify that the PTO basket is set to the proper depth pertains to the allen set screws that lock it together (long ones with points). Those don't drive into the bearing, they actually set just behind the bearing pushing it into the PTO pulley, binding it together. If you remove the set screws and take a good flashlight you can peer into the set screw hole and see the very edge of the bearing if its installed correctly. If the points look mashed, or the hole looks solid the PTO pulley isn't back far enough. Again, be sure bearing sir clip is flush to crank.
I'm pretty sure if you check these things carefully you will be able to get it to work. IF not, you will need to compare all dimensions of each part to be sure noting is too thick; PTO pulley, friction disc, and pressure plate.
Two more notes:1) when you lock the bearing collar be suer to go against crank rotation. 2) don't forget to insert the 3 anti rattle springs. You don't have them in in your image.
Best of luck,
Mike
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