Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G.
The manual assumes you have a tractor that never spent a day of its life out in the elements. I don't like to hammer on things on the driveshaft unnecessarily since it isn't good for the bearings in the pump. I've done it both ways and found it easier to unbolt the engine and slide it forward than mess with the spirol pins unless the spirol pins are shot.
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Our approach may be different.
Once I take a drive shaft out for the first time it goes back in as new. If the shaft is good (no wear) then it gets wire wheeled and painted, pins get wire wheeled and a good coat of anti-sieze prior to instalation, bushings get replaced, rags replaced, bolts replaced. I've yet to have one that I did not take back out for some reason or another and once replaced it's a breeze to remove with everything clean and rust free and anti-sieze on the pins.
Scott