Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George
FWIW:
If you removed the top tube/flange from the pump to align the flat for the drive shaft, by removing the bolts or nuts,
you might have disturbed the o ring(s) in the stack up of the pump.
I hope it don't weep/leak for you, but if it does, you will know why.
BTDT.
a kit will cure it if it does leak.  |
It already had a little drip, so yeah I will be back in it. Hoping all of this seals. My rigid flare does 1/4 ok but crappy for 3/8. I need to order a kit.
Nightow - your effort was my inspiration. Originally planned to go that deep and Red. Someday...
So last night I did not do so well. In short, things battled me, tweaked my back (my fault) and found engine mounts REALLY bad. Almost worn thru the plate. One more thing to fix. PO thought this thing was flawless and like new
I did get hyd all wrapped up. (steering not in this pic) Not as pretty as preferred but in place. So still wanting to go the CH20 route. Both are sitting there, have the couplers to make the driveshaft. Have some questions. After my back I could not move the CH20 to compare. Is the pto height different on the two? Looking to learn engine plate to pto on the mag 20 and do spacers as needed. Need to know what the spacer thickness was originally. Guessing somewhere around .665? Those are easy enough to lathe up.
Also debating what switches to set in in the dash while apart.
For grins. My son holding the frame while we pressed the rockshaft apart.