pmarq2008-
If you have a torch, I'd use that to heat #3 until it glows, then move it back and forth with a hammer until it cools, rather than pouring acid all over everything. If you use the acid, everything it touches will have to be repainted, as it will eat not only the rust, but also all of the paint.
Muriatic Acid safety tips: don't even think about getting near it without wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves. Don't get it near anything metal that you like, as it will completely destroy aluminum parts in a matter of minutes, and the fumes alone will badly rust steel and iron parts nearby. Murphycc is wrong, water is ph-neutral and will NOT neutralize acid, only dilute it. You need baking soda to neutralize it. Keep some nearby to immediately neutralize spills. You can then flush everything with water after the acid has been neutralized.
I'm going to highly recommend that you don't get acid anywhere near your tractor, as you may wind up getting it places you don't want it, and then your tractor is going to rust away wherever the acid remains. A friend of my dad's had a car frame rust out badly because he stored a jug of Muriatic Acid on a shelf next to the car. Some PB Blaster, a torch, and patience is all you need to free it up. This is a fairly common problem. This part was stuck on my 782 when I got it, and a few days soaking in PB blaster and tapping it back and forth with a hammer freed it up.
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