Guys,
I think I have a better solution than tapping it for a pipe thread. If there is enough material around the hole to tap it, there is enough material to bore 1/16" out of the hole and o-ring counterbore and just use a 3/8" push to connect fitting. I do think I would use the push to connect fitting with the longer end than the GM fitting. Then it could be cut to the proper length, which is a little longer than the GM.
I don't mean any disrespect to the members here by this, but I'm also suggesting this mod. because some people have trouble tapping a hole straight and getting a pipe thread the correct depth. At worst, this could ruin a valve that is now NLA. I'm included in the straightness group myself. I do all my tapping on the lathe, mill, etc., where I can have a center hold the tap straight or use a tapping head. If you took them to a machine shop, they shouldn't be expensive to have it modified if you already have the valve apart and cleaned. With a drawing of the new hole and counterbore size provided to the machinist, they should all be interchangeable with other valves modified the same way.
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2 Originals, 100, 105, 125, 1450, 1200, 2 IH 982's, 1211, 1872, 2072, 2-1864's, 1782, a few 42" front blades, 2 Haban 54" blades, Haban sickle mower, BB36, QA-36A, 42" IH rear blade, 42" IH landscape rake, #1 tiller, #40 box blade, 59M shredder, #2 cart, International 3312 push mower, International 250 power washer, 1952 IH refridgerator, 1971 IH 1210 3/4T 4x4 truck
  
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