ok so the 123 is a verry solid hydro!!!
than i guess i will leave it be and just do a rebuild on the k241 motor with some good porting for general yard work, a 3 angle valve job, mod the eyebrows for combustion chamber flow, shave the head down 50 thou, polish the combustion chamber and piston face, a reground cam for more torque from 0 to 4,000 rpms for general yard work and towing/pulling, a crank trigger ignition and a high performance coil. since i have a 301 crank and rod i can send out the 301 crank, rod and 241 piston to brian miller or lacota or really any good shop to be fully balance as a compleate assembly then do away with the balance gear setup if applicable. and a modded flywheel with the fins shaved down and balanced also
this will give me a fully build 27 cid motor designed for heavy dutie yard work and pulling/towing that should have ample power and last years, this with a 30mm oem kohler carb rebuilt for this pourpose and a free flowing exhaust fit for the motor should be all i need for general yard work for years and still be easy enough to use for my MOM to still be able to start it and mow with it !
i may also tune the hydro drive with new springs in the valves, and a clean up and simple rebuild with new fluid.
NOW for the pulling tractor ... the k301 that is coming out of the cub 123 when the k241 is ready for transplant has a seriously worn bore ! its 20 thou over as marked on the piston and is very loose in the bore and piston slap can be heard when running. i know going .030 over will NOT be enough to clean up the bore so ...
are there .040 over pistons available ? or is it worth resleeving ? or should i just go with a new block to be more cost efective ?
if i go with a new block i just may as well build a k341 16hp, after all this will be a strictly puller and i have spare 16hp pistons rods and a crank that needs a light regrind on the journal, but for pulling i am not shure if i should go with points ignition or solid state like a magnum 16 has, or mabe a crank trigger and coil, i am not shure on the best setup for pulling ignition wise, my dad said to me that the points and coil make a way hotter spark but rely on the camshaft and a rod and points on a spring... all of wich have play betwwen them that can through off the timming at high rpms but a magneto style with coil on the case cover and magnet in flywheel, even though it is stand allone and trouble free, makes a weeker spark because of the small coil, and timming canot be adjusted easily due to the fact that its controlled by the keyway on the flywheel...
this leads me to believe that the best pulling only style ingnition would be a crank trigger to high end hot coil with a starter generator that is setup on a sring so it can be disconected from the motor for a pull but sprung back in place for general driving around to keep a charge.
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