Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech
Ummm....... Why do each of those pistons have a mark on them that looks like the exhaust valve was smacking them?
You sure you have the valve lash set correctly?
You sure that someone didn't plain that head at some point and it's supposed to have a shim, or a thicker head gasket on it?
Just because the glow plugs are getting 12V doesn't mean they work.
If the battery wipes out that fast, you either have a bad battery, or a very junk starter.
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So, I did notice the uniform marks on each of the pistons below the exhaust valve, but having never had one of these apart before, I didn't know if it was correct or not. I've seen plenty of pistons where there are castings for the indents of one or all valves, so that's what I was basing my train of thought on. Seeing that's not the case, I did check valve lash this morning. Specs call for .005-.007, 4 of the 6 were north of .030. Notwithstanding the sloppy valve clearance, snugging them up to specs changed nothing. The video link below shows the rocker arm actually lifting off of the head during cranking, so I think I've got more serious issues to deal with here than I initially thought. No doubt the head has been off and possibly cut already. The manual does mention a .007 shim for the head, but I have no experience with head shims, nor did I find one on disassembly. I guess I should pull the head back off and check it for thickness, cause I can only imagine that it's too thin if the pushrods are pushing on the rocker arm like that. I can't see how that's acceptable under normal circumstances and that would also explain why the valve cover nuts will not stay tight.
This is also about the limit of how long I can get the motor to crank over for...
http://vid1067.photobucket.com/album...psweukgec6.mp4
John, what's next for troubleshooting the glow plugs? 15 seconds on the bench made each of them red hot.