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Originally Posted by darkminion_17
I see green paint, musta been in a green thing. Definitely not an original k161 in it.
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I saw that too. I agree.
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Originally Posted by sgraber
I will try widening those two fins on the dipstick to see if that'll help keep it in there. If not, I might just buy a replacement dipstick as there's a lot of slop when I move it around. It should fit in there tight, which it doesn't.
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The "fins" are there to hold the dipstick straight in the block. That way it doesn't get into anything rotating. The o-ring/rubber bushing at the top holds it in.
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Originally Posted by sgraber
Yep, I knew I needed new gaskets as these tore pretty badly when I removed the parts. I quick put it back together to see if it fixed my oil dipstick problem (which it didn't). I'll pick up two for the breather, one for the carb, and one for the air cleaner.
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You need them whether you tore them or not. They are cork, and turn hard after they have been heated up and cooled several times. Even if you had just replaced them, they typically won't seal up after you remove them. BTDT. I get gaskets from my local O'Reilly's. Prime line is usually cheaper.
DO NOT use silicone on the gaskets. It can plug the drain hole on the breather. Seen that several times. Install them dry. You can glue the gasket to the lid, and the reed retainer plate with a dab of silicone on the top corner.... but I suggest something like weatherstip adhesive or even glue. Just holds it in place while you install everything.
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Originally Posted by sgraber
Oh, the reed valve isn't stuck shut. I checked that this time around. Should I replace that filter media in the breather housing with new filter media? I've read some people use 3M scotchbrite pad pieces as replacement parts?
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Good deal the valve isn't stuck. Make sure you install it right when you go back together.
That filter media isn't critical. Just designed to catch oil and keep it from dripping out the breather. If it falls apart, you can replace it. Don't use Scotchbrite pads. That's a bad idea. They are sanding pads and have "grit" on them. You want that getting into your engine? I use furnace filter material. Steel wool (without soap on it) will also work.
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Originally Posted by sgraber
FYI I posted this question also on the farmallcub.com forum and the first poster said I needed a full engine rebuild as I was getting blow-by. Thoughts?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olds45512
It doesn't need rebuilt. when the piston goes up it pulls air into the crankcase and when it goes down it forces it back out, that's what the breather is for. The air will take the path of least resistance which is why so much air comes out when the dipstick is removed. The breather can't work when the dipstick hole is wide open.
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Tim is correct.
It may have excessive blow by...... but if that motor truly had enough blow by to blow the dipstick out..... it wouldn't run. Your dipstick retainer is just bad. Good thing to take the breather out and check/clean it anyway. As you found, the hole was plugged.