Quote:
Only a couple possibilities left:
*The fuel is bad. (You don't say anywhere how long ago it was running.)
*You flooded it and just need to pull the plug out, crank the engine to dry the cylinder some. (If you do that make sure the spark plug wire is far away from the spark plug hole, and also not near the carb. Might have fire where you don't want it.)
*Timing is not correctly set
*Something you took apart didn't get installed correctly.
Couple things I want to point out that makes me somewhat skeptical:
You stated in post 1 that you took the engine apart to retrieve a broken ACR tab. You do not say you fixed or replaced the cam. I find it surprising that your starter can crank the engine if the ACR is not working. 14hp is big motor.
Second, you stated that you had 98lbs compression. If the ACR was working, you shouldn't have that much, AND that's pretty high compression for that starter. If this engine cranks, I'm skeptical of that number.
Third, you stated you did a leak down test, but you don't know if the gauge you are using is capable of that test..... um, well, do you know how to perform a leak down test? A regular compression gauge will not do one, so just how exactly did you perform that test?? Takes a leak down test kit to do one, and it should have two gauges on it. So.... skeptical about both your compression test and the leak down test.
Alright... so does this engine have compression? If so, how much? What all did you take off of it? You say you had all the bolt on part off of it? Head? Did you remove the head?
Until we know if what you did to repair the broken ACR, kind of hard to say what the problem is. It has fuel, it has spark. I feel confident it's getting air...... should run.
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Jonathan
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Thank you for your help once again Jon. I have a poor memory but your in-depth look at my problem sparked my memory. I had forgotten that I had the valves out and reseated the exhaust valve. Also had the intake valve out to clean. Had a real problem getting the valve keepers back on. Adjusted the valves as per the manual. Now to your questions.
1. Fuel is good. Not much fuel on plug but I put new spark plug in and still not starting.
2. Timing not set correctly. I set timing and checked it twice. I turned engine by hand and when test light flickered, I verified that "s" line was aligned with line on housing.
3. Broken tab and acr. I pulled the engine because I felt the acr tab was bent down and not working. After removing the oil pan the tab was indeed bent down. I tried to bend tab for 2nd time and it broke off the acr. I retrieved tab from engine thus leaving the acr not functioning.
4. Engine cranking and compression. The engine will crank if I turn the front pully so that it is back from the compression stroke. This gives it a little time to crank before building compression and once it rolls past the first compression stroke, it cranks almost as fast as it usually did before this problem. I have an older compression gauge, but I feel that it is working properly and the compression reading was 98 psi after 3 cranking rotations. The acr is not working due to the broken pin. No I probably don't know how to do a leak down test and I stated in my first post that I didn't know if you could do a leak down test with this compression tester. I do know that leak down is the amount of time it takes for compression to leak by the rings and how much leakage there is.
Going to pull the head and watch the movement of both valves. As I stated, Had a real hard time getting the valve keepers on the valves. Thank you and all the others for helping me. I would be lost with out this forum. Have a great day.
Bob