Quote:
Originally Posted by green 4 acres
hey Jmech here is a auto test I m sure you can ace right ...or will you just blow it off
Since you ....Jmech say I wouldnt understand ,lets see how you do answering these auto tech questions
Auto tech test
1 what is the first measurement you should take when rebuilding a auto trans ?
2 what are the last two biggest innovations in design in auto trans?
3 why did the manufacturers only recommend using their ATF in the mid 90s on ?
4 What do the metal lines from the trans to the radiator go to/do ?
5 what is a good/easy way to determine if the trans pump is working sufficiently ?
6 if a auto trans ,after sitting for a couple of days ,up one start up, has no pull ,then after running a min, or two seems to drive good , what part should be looked at for replacement ?
7 On a carb, what is (after 1973 ) the correct way to adjust the idle mixture screws setting ?
8 what replaced the speedo gear drives on many auto trans , and how does it work?
9 what is the best way to be very accurate when doing a compression test , under what conditions ?
10 what is the name of the system standard after 06 ( on every car, cycle, watercraft etc.,) that prevents theft and what can it do ?
11 if you have a engine to lean trouble code ( I don’t know # it off hand ) what is likely or the first thing to check ?
12 describe the EVAP system workings... in your words
13 what was the parts update in early 2000s ...what can you do and cant ?
14 whats the difference between the AWD and 4wd components
I think we all want to know your thoughts on this
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Well.... I'm not going to answer (all) the questions. Although, I did consider it. Just for my own entertainment.
But decided against it, but not out of anything other than some of them are really vague. Take 13 for example. Parts update to what? We talking parts as in parts supply? Or parts as in a component update to a vehicle? Very vague question. I'll answer a couple though.
Or how about #6? Because that answer will vary depending on what model of trans you are diagnosing. On a Chrysler (Dodge) trans for example, (lets use the 42RE-48RE) from the factory the transmission does not circulate any oil into the T/C (or really anywhere for that matter) when the vehicle is in park, but it does in neutral (and all other manual valve positions). So, it isn't uncommon at all to have a drain back issue after sitting a few days. Once it starts, the vehicle won't move right away when moved to drive or reverse. Rather than go tearing into the trans to fix something that Chrysler says there is no fix for, I'd just file off the corner of the land on the manual valve so that the pump lubes in park, and it will fix the issue. It only takes a few seconds of run time to fill the converter back up, and you no longer have the hesitation. I file every valve on ever Dodge trans I do so that it cures the issue. Very common issue on a Chrysler.
Now, if it's a Chevrolet trans, different story. If it is losing fluid in the converter, then it could be a number of things from a leaking front seal, to a blown o-ring on the input shaft, to a weak pump to an air leak on the suction side of the pump, or even low fluid.
And I may not have even understood the question.... Like I said, some are vague.
Question 4: Seriously? This thread is about the overhaul of an automatic, and you are asking what the trans cooler lines are? I mean, I'm assuming you just pulled the questions at random, but you could have gotten some more difficult ones.
Question 14: Now see, there is a good question. It wasn't vague, and it's a reasonable one, albeit a pretty basic knowledge question, but I'll answer it with a short answer. A 3rd differential in the transfer case. That good enough?
Question 11: I'm going to look for vacuum leaks first. Then I'm going to check the MAF against the O2 and see how they compare, then check fuel pressure. O2 codes are usually just indicative of another issue.
No, I think you are the only one that wants to know my thoughts on them. So, I humored you on a couple.