Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr
I found a guy on facebook who gave me an AWESOME deal on a whole setup, original carb, oil bath, fuel sediment collector, and the mounts. If he can find the original choke cable he is going to include that too.
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Glad you found all that stuff.
The sediment bowl gasket will dry out, and the screen rots. Not uncommon for the aluminum base to corrode and even with a new gasket it will leak. The fuel shut off seal will also dry out and leak. They are still very much available new, and don't cost much. Take my word, you want a new one. Several companies make them, not hard to find at all. Same with the choke cable. It's just a regular old choke cable available at any any parts store. Nothing special at all. You buy them, install them and cut them to length. Easy peezy. Don't use an old nasty rusty choke cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr
The electric system on this thing is confusing me. I'm not really sure if the switch near the "choke" sign on the column is really a choke or not... Ill take pics tomorrow night and hopefully you guys can help me figure it out. I'm debating taking the electric apart and rewiring it the right way (once I understand the right way)...
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I really think that is a switch for the lights, but you still have not posted a pic of this "electric choke". Either way, it's coming off as it isn't OEM. Just get it off there.
Don't bother "understanding" the wiring. Member MLamar makes new wiring harnesses and they are very affordable. Just order a new wiring harness. Don't even bother trying to sort out the old, or figure out what the OP did. Just rip all the wiring off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr
I printed off the 4 different manuals I found online today (users manual, engine, chassis, and rear fenders)
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You need not search "online" for manuals. There are all on this site in
this section. There is also a wiring diagram on the last page of that section.
Here, if you can't find it. No need to look anywhere but here. We make is easy, that's why this is the best site for Cub Cadet info.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr
J-mech,,, I know you said if the cylinder doesnt need bored, the engine doesnt need rebuilt... would I be wrong, while I have it torn down, to redo all the seals and reinstall the existing piston/rod?
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I have absolutely no idea why you would tear down the engine and remove the piston unless you are going to overhaul it. No reason to remove it for anything other than replacement. Don't take the motor apart unless it needs to be taken apart. You can replace the gaskets if you think they are leaking, and change the seals, but don't mess with the seals unless they are leaking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykhjr
Also, A local auction has a QA-42 snow thrower.... i dont have a PTO, but if anyone sees this is the next 2.5 weeks, and wants it, let me know, ill give you the info to bid, and if you win, ill pick it up for you and store it until you can make it out here or arrange freight. (same auction where I picked this tractor up for 50 bucks)
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A QA-42 will not fit an O, even if you had a PTO.
A PTO can be added to the O if you want one.