Quote:
Originally Posted by drglinski
Is this the correct PN for the tie rod ends? 4444T931 For all 4?
As far as modifying the tie rods, if I'm reading correctly, to ensure it's correct after the OEM (or replacement tie rod ends at this point) are removed, I will have to cut more threads further in and then cut off excess ones? I think I know what you (JMech) are getting at.
Thanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman
For the bearing at the top of the coulumn, you will use a decent used or new bearing that is the same one that is in your wheels (5/8 x 1 3/8). You have to either dimple the top of the tube with a center punch or use JB weld to hold the bearing in as it's o.d. is just slightly loose in the tube.
As for the tie rods, what jMech means is that the suggested ends from McMasteer are physically longer than the originals so in order to match the old total end-to-end length you will need more threads to turn them closer in.
Another thing you can do is buy (from McMaster) a very thin thrust roller bearing, some very thin thrust washers, and a nyloc nut to put on the pivot arm shaft that goes thru the gearbox. I have done this along with all the other suggestions and with tri-ribs on the front, steering comes about as clolse to power as you can get
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Yes Daniel, that is the correct part number for the rod ends.
I will note, I'm not all too impressed with the grease fitting they come with. They don't fit a standard gun fitting well.
Ironman hit the nail on the head. Yes, you need to thread the drag links just a bit more because of the total length of the new. DO NOT cut off any excess until you see if you need too, and how much. Last tractor I did, the rod end bottomed out before I got everything in line. Do the tie rod first, (wheel to wheel) and get the toe adjusted. Then change out and adjust the drag link (steering box to the spindle).
Ironmans suggestion for the thrust bearing on the steering box is a very good idea. I like it. I will do that on the next box I rebuild. As a note, I also plan to machine off the lower portion of the axle itself, and put thrust bearings there also. I think that will make more difference than anything.
While you have it all apart, you likely will need new spindle bolts (that hold the spindle to the axle.)
You can get all the bearings, tie rod ends, bolts, and die you need all from McMaster Carr. I would round up a list and order it all at once.
