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Old 06-01-2009, 06:51 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,190
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Quote:
by squatch
I had old style stabil in the fuel. After much reading last week I found that the old stuff is not made for E10.

Regular old style stabilizers don't work they are mainly (suprise) alcohol.
I suggest you check out question #5 in Sta-Bil faqs:
http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/faq.aspx#stabil

Notice this question is under the Red Sta-Bil faqs. I have been using the orginal Sta-Bil for 7 to 8 years with no fuel related problems.

Check out the fuel related questions #8 and #9 in Kohler's faq section:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/maintenance/faqs.htm

Starbrite is a additive and a fuel stablizer according to the link that was posted by squatch. Part of the responce in Kohler's faq #12 says Kohler does not recommend using additives or cleaners in the oil or fuel system. The starbrite may be good for marine...not good for Kohler motors in Cub Cadets.

Briggs and Stratton have a good info in their faq section:
http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faq...i=&p_topview=1

http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faq...hfdGV4dD1mdWVs

You don't need to waste your money on race level gas (clear gas) for you 2 or 4 cycle motors. Leaded gas will leave deposits. I run 89 octane fuel in my Stihl, Lawn Boy and Echo 2 cycle motors. The owner's manuals for my Stihl and Echo motors says to run a mininum of 90 octane gas. Stale gas (before ethanol) will eat gaskets, carb parts and fuel lines.

It is too easy to blame a new product that big oil doesn't want replacing their fuel. I like tha have 1/10 of the money big oil spent putting ethanol down.

The fuel tester kit is another rip off that is being sold. If you do the following you won't need to waste your money on a fuel tester kit.

1. Go to a 30 day gas rule
2. Buy enough gas to last you only 30 days
3. Use a fuel stablizer every time you fill your fuel containers. Two goo fuel stablizers are Sta-Bil and the Briggs and Stratton sells.
4. Use a fuel container that you can seal
5. Buy you fuel from a name brand fuel station. The cheap gas is a name brand rejects.
6. Find a fuel that has the least amount of additives in their fuel. BP/Sterling has the most and Marathon has the least in my area. The additives is what plugs the fuel injectors and carb jets.
7. I shake my fuel containers before I fill the tanks on my small motors. This is a must for 2 cycle motors.
8. I do not leave my fuel containers on the cement-shop floor. My shop floor stays around 55 to 60 degrees. Cold floor and warm temps are a good way to form condensation.
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