[cub123]

Originally Posted by Ambush

I initially thought the same as ole' George, but in this case the load on the bolts is shear force. The lever being above and being pulled actually forces the U bracket against the diff. If you were just hanging a load off the U bracket (without the lever) then definitely it would be up side down.

Basically the deadweight of whatever you lift will put that amount of shear force on the bolts. The tensile pull on the lever and link will be much greater.

I agree, the way the force is applied should be applied into the rear end and down, not really wrenching on it.

Originally Posted by ol'George

Not remembering what the oem looked like, I tend to over build things or think them out, and when doubt, go heavier or stronger.
And it is a cub, not a large piece of farm or construction equipment, and the fact you copied a proven design, I'm sure it will be just fine.

I never was one to follow the crowd, always inquisitive and thinking/asking questions.
sometimes that is good, sometimes it leads to interesting results!
I do like your project, and every time you use it, a feeling of accomplishment is derived. BTDT

I agree with you ol'George, if I was designing it from scratch I would have run two pieces of angle iron vertically with a cross brace in order to catch 4 bolts. The actual pivot point and lever almost have to remain where they are on a tractor with fenders as altering the fulcrum point or lever length would cause interference in the fender pan slot ( this was one of the biggest challenges I had getting it right, because if I messed it up the lift bar was going to grind in the fender pan, lol). Typically I overbuild things, like this Bush Hog GT I helped my brother with. This was an engine repower (25 HP Kubota), rear end swap and we built the 3 point.