Here's my experience with the same cradle problem. No 1, make sure the oil pan holes are clean and the threads are not galled, worn, or partially stripped. I had to replace the one on my 1650 because 2 of the holes had some of the threads stripped. I used Grade 5 bolts and torqued to spec for Grade 5 with a dab of blue threadlocker. It's been close to 200 hours run time on mine and they are still tight. No 2, Use CC sourced mounts and bushings. They're more spendy than knock-offs but they do the job. They come in kits with the correct bolts. I didn't need the cross brace. When everything is tight to spec it will act as a unit without extra support. Some want the extra insurance so it was 50/50 with me.
Check your coil's primary resistance. The right coil should be 3.4 - 4 ohms. Lower ohms will allow too much current and then it overheats. I saved the hassle and went with the Kohler coil. I've only had to buy one. It might even survive a key on engine off, but it gets hot. Now the key goes with me no matter what if the engine is off. Mount the coil anywhere, it don't care as long as it has juice and can reach the spark plug.
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