As mentioned above, raise the machine and properly support it by the frame rails as you will need to pivot the axle from side to side. Remove both wheels as well to make it easier to work around.
Ratcheting box end is fine, to get it a bit loose.
BUT, don't back it out too far w/that wrench unless it is the type you can change direction without flipping it over.
Other wise, you may not be able to extract the wrench from the bolt head from the tight spot it will be in! Best to finish removing them w/your fingers once loose enough to turn that way.
Reinstall the same way, much easier once everything is cleaned up/
Also, this will be a perfect to check for fore, aft and axial slop in the axle "C" channel and address that issue if present by squeezing it back into spec and/or adding shims or new pin w/bushings if needed.
While you are in this far, make sure the grease Zerks, (3of them), in the axle pivot and knuckle ends are operable and will take grease.
Your oil pan may be either aluminum or cast iron. If aluminum, be sure to check for wear in and around the mounting holes as there may be issues there that need attention as well such as stripped or worn threads etc.
If you are lucky enough to have a cast iron pan, there should be no issues if all 4 bolts were tight.
Good luck and enjoy your Cub, they are great machines and much more simple to work on compared to what is now available.
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