Ok so I finished rebuilding one complete unit from parts.
I have to take the poles and coils out of the unrestored working one to finish rebuilding the body of the generator that was originally on the tractor. My only question is if the armature with the fewer commutator sectors will work the same as the other one. Looking up replacement armatures on ebay the sellers list both CW and CCW units that they replace, so It should work fine?? From rewinding the coils i figured out the difference is the polarity of the windings (cant reuse the series winding, was able to switch polarity of the leads on the field coil and use it in the rebuilt unit)
Put voltmeters on both battery and armature terminal. Analog voltmeters were showing about 14V on both. could see the voltage wobble a bit as the governor dwelled a bit up and down. when i throttled down the voltage stayed the same and was more stable as the rpm was more steady at low speed. After about 20 min when I throttled down and idled a little while before cutting it off the voltage of the battery was stable. I even double checked the accuracy with my digital meter, the more recently calibrated meter showed it was 13V.
The body of the generator got warm much more slowly as the heat from the bearings spread from the end plate to the body. It does get warm but it seems the bearings are more of a normal amount of heating.
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1450- 44A deck,QA-36 snowthrower, 42in front blade No.2 Tiller
70- 38in deck, 42 inch deck
GE E-12 Electrak- front mount mower, snow plow
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