[darkminion_17]

Today I changed out the bad drive shaft on the 125.I blocked the front wheels on both side to keep the whole thing from moving.Disconnected the battery also.The tractor was held level in place with the spackle buckets,which were the right height for under the foot rest.These help keep the tractor from tipping over once the rear is removed.Then I removed the hydro linkage off the cam plate,then removed the brake linkage off the brake arm.Apparently the drive shaft was not bent.The input shaft on the pump side was wallowed out,rag joint was torn and the little teat that is on the end of the drive shaft was bad.Whilest I was in there I took a look at the trunion,not bad,but I had to take the the slop out of the cam and plate assembly.I had these balance gear shims,worked well for the cam assembly.I picked up a few 18 ga. machine bushings for the damper plate,only needed one.Put it all back together,the rubber band came in handy to hold the brake linkage up so it makes it over the rock shaft.BTDT.Slid it back in and reconnected everything.The paint stick worked well holding up the drive shaft and guiding it through the fan shroud and the air baffle plate.I still have to test it out and see if it creeps.I did remember to mark the location of the cam plate assembly before I removed It.Just a note.If you are trying to free up the hydro release valves,you do not need to completely pull the rear out.As long as you remove the bolts on the frame that hold the rear on,you can slide the tranny back as far as you need to access them.This keeps the trans brackets on the frame and keeps it from falling out.