LTX1050VT no start eletric issue

[sofasurfer]

I have a Cub Cadet LTX1050T. The other day it ran fine. Then I went to mow a lawn and it wouldn't start, no click either. I jumped the battery. No different. I jumped the starter (red to positive, black to body) and it spins over with the key on or off but no start. Would not even fire. SEEMS to not have spark. Thought maybe I flooded it for lack of a better reason. I let it sit over night and the ignition did not work the next day. I jumped the starter and It started right up. This told me that it must have been flooded and possibly a bad ignition switch. I shut it off and tried to restart. NOTHING. I tried ether (while jumping the starter). NOTHING. I am sure there is no spark. So, this along with the ignition switch not working makes me think the switch is the whole issue.
Question...
1) Does the switch activate 2 circuits, starter and ignition?
2) What would you look for as a cause?
3) How would I diagnose this problem?

[ironman]

Check the fuse!

[sofasurfer]

Is that the big one under the seat? It was good yesterday but I will check it again.

[sofasurfer]

Yep, fuse is good.
I think I am only getting power from the solenoid to the starter periodically so I am thinking a defective solenoid. I removed it and I see that it is riveted together. I intend to try to test it tomorrow when I figure out how. I bet its that same situation I used to have on my 1964 Buick Special when I was a youngster which would be burned contacts inside. I may grind the rivets off to get inside and if its fixable I'll run some long bolts through to reassemble it.
Sound like I'm on track?
Solenoid controls crank circuit but does it also control ignition circuit?
I also think I could use a new battery. Its old. I read that it can supply 12 volts but still not have enough amps?

[ironman]

The solenoid has nothing to do with ignition.
Solenoids sole purpose is to act as a switch that is able to handle high current flow from battery to starter motor.
Ignition (spark) is produced by the engine magneto, just like your pull start lawn mower.
Your key switch has two functions:
1. In "start" position, it sources voltage to the small terminal of the solenoid to energize it.
2. In the "off" position, it sources ground to the magneto to kill spark and shut down engine.

A. Get a decent battery before anything else or you're wasting your time.
B. Check that your battery cable connections are clean and tight, and also the negative cable connection to the chassis.
C. To test the solenoid, make sure that the solenoid has a good clean metal to metal contact with the chassis (i.e. ground).
Then, simply remove the wire from the solenoid's small terminal. Connect a jumper to the positive battery terminal.
Touch the other end of the wire to the solenoid's small terminal.

If the solenoid engages and spins the motor it is good and your problem is back toward the key switch.
If it just clicks and doesn't spin the motor, or doesn't click at all, it is bad.

If it tests bad, and your curious, take it apart and inspect.
But I'd still replace it. They're about 15 bucks at any parts store.

[sofasurfer]

I connected the solenoids small terminals to a power supply (my battery jumper) and the large terminals to a ohm meter. When I toggle the power supply off and on the resistance between the large terminals varies (0.7, 3.0, 0.7, 14, 1.1, 14k, 2.0, 240k, 0.7, 2.2, etc). These readings should be non-variable, right? What is a healthy reading....0.1?

[Red Dave]

Originally Posted by sofasurfer

I connected the solenoids small terminals to a power supply (my battery jumper) and the large terminals to a ohm meter. When I toggle the power supply off and on the resistance between the large terminals varies (0.7, 3.0, 0.7, 14, 1.1, 14k, 2.0, 240k, 0.7, 2.2, etc). These readings should be non-variable, right? What is a healthy reading....0.1?

If I'm understanding what you are testing, you are correct. The solenoid is essentially a relay and you are energizing the pull-in coil and testing the resistance of the contacts. The contact resistance should be low and consistent.

It sounds to me that the contacts are worn/burnt/damaged and it's time for a new solenoid.

[sofasurfer]

I drilled off the rivet heads on the bottom of the solenoid. I removed the steel plate and the pulled the rivets out. On disassemble I found that one of the large lug contacts was really burned bad. I sanded it off. I bought 4 bolts and nuts, about 2.5mm x about a half inch. Cost me over $4 which I must say is OUTRAGEOUS. I had to drill the holes out a bit for the screws. I reassembled it and reinstalled it. Tractor starts perfectly with no clicking.

[ol'George]

Now that is a REAL farmer fix.
Congratulation's!!
Next time it goes bad you can honestly say you got all the good out of it!!
And you can walk tall and proud knowing you fixed something that most would
throw away and wait on a replacement.

[evhevh]

Originally Posted by sofasurfer

I drilled off the rivet heads on the bottom of the solenoid. I removed the steel plate and the pulled the rivets out. On disassemble I found that one of the large lug contacts was really burned bad. I sanded it off. I bought 4 bolts and nuts, about 2.5mm x about a half inch. Cost me over $4 which I must say is OUTRAGEOUS. I had to drill the holes out a bit for the screws. I reassembled it and reinstalled it. Tractor starts perfectly with no clicking.

Love it when someone actually fixes a part vs replacing it. Good job!