127 pulley welded to shaft

[GallopingGhost38]

Longtime lurker, recent signup and first post…

I picked up a 1969 127 that had been for sale along a nearby road.

It was cheap and there were obvious things missing, but it runs well and drives well with no creeping or leaks. It’s a 55-year-old tractor…

Digging in, though, I’ve discovered that a previous owner welded the clutch drive pulley and associated hardware to the output shaft. It appears to have been converted into a yard towing machine rather than a ground working tractor. I had figured on using it to eventually mow the yard.

I’m debating now whether to keep going with this as this is beyond the scope of what I can do in my garage. The question is whether I can get someone to break/grind the welds to get the basket pulley off and replace it to reverse whatever it is they did. Or if it’s all welded together permanently. I’m not a metalworker or a machinist, so I don’t know if this looks to be reversible without damaging the crankshaft. I also don’t know what these parts look like disassembled to know the extent of how this is all locked together.

The engine appears to be original, so I’d like to keep it together with the chassis.

Thoughts/suggestions?

[Billy-O]

You can get someone to grind off the what looks like the locking collar from the PTO bearing if you're uncomfortable doing it yourself. Hopefully both the collar and pulley basket will come off easily.

Two things of concern: 1) why was the pulley and collar welded? Could there possibly be slop on crank keyway the previous owner have reason to weld? Maybe some other reason? 2) The front of PTO bearing with the locking collar between the basket and bearing should sit flush with the end of the crank. Your picture shows the locking collar sitting almost flush with the end of crank with no room for the bearing. I just hope the crank hasn't been cut/modified in the past. Is there room to push the basket and collar back and allow room for the bearing?

[GallopingGhost38]

I don’t know how much room there is supposed to be, but from the back edge of the pulley to the block is about 13/16” to 7/8”. As a Cub neophyte, I don’t know if that space and the design of all those parts would allow the pulley to slide back farther. Not sure how that would change belt alignment with the generator.

I’ll have to check when it’s light and remove the belt to check for any play in the crank.

As far as any history, the previous owner and I do not know any detail as to why this was done.

[Grandpa53]

Looks like basket became loose on crank and if so both have enough wear that welding them was only recourse without having crank rebuilt and using a good basket. I don't know what that is that's welded to the basket pulley and crank but definitely not a locking collar. Locking collars are female and do not have keyways. More than likely the only way to repair is going to be with a good crank and another basket. Going to be expensive repair. Good luck!

[jbrewer]

I'm guessing that with some patience and some small cut off wheels, you could get that weld split.

Hard to know why it was done that way. People do really slapdash stuff in the heat of the moment (me included)

That said, I've never welded anything to the crank!

[Ambush]

Do you have a 4 1/2" grinder? If not buy one. Buy a couple of grinding discs and several thin zip cut blades. It shouldn't take much grinding and cutting in the right places to get that off. You're not trying to save the basket at this point, just the shaft.

[green407]

I'm going to recommend you remove the engine from the tractor first, makes for better access. Then yeah, a 4 1/2 angle grinder, a few thin disks (3/64" thick), a sharp chisel, a small hammer, and a lot of patience. If I remember correctly the crank shafts are cast iron, so the welds well break off and clean up fairly easily.

Take your time and work at it slowly.

[Littlebear]

I’m pretty new to the cub show to but if your shift is worn you may as well scarp it and get a new shaft because if it’s worn then that’s the reason for welding. I would just try to use a dremel tool if it was mine to save the basket and the bearing (if it’s part of the welded part). that is a pretty precise cutting tool if you have the right attachment.