worked on it all day, now the ?'s

krhoover · #1 05-28-2011, 05:58 PM

I worked on that 1450 all day, got a lot done. Found out that I didn't need new king pin bushings, the holes were the 1/2" bolt goes thru the A frame was wore out of round, got that welded up and good to go, Didn't need wheel bearings either, the wheel bearing spindels wore also, welded and filed, polished and got a snug fit on the bearings. Now for that trunion repair. I have read and reread the posts and the links for the repair, but have some questions yet. Some repairs say to fill in the corners were the end caps have cut a groove in, one link says to use 5/32 key stock to build a rectangle back around the bracket. (I like that one the best) Am I closing in that rectangle to fit the spring and cap ass'ly? Does anyone know what the dimensions of the rectangle should be when finished? Does the large spring touch against the end caps when in place in the trunion arm? I read about putting shims between the large spring and the end caps(I think). Does any repair need to be done on the bracket arm that fits over the trunion arm (pic of it on the tire) I am going to post some pics, I hope it works. Thanks to all that have gave info on all my questions since getting this tractor.

krhoover · #2 05-28-2011, 06:16 PM

Just thought of a few more things. I didn't remove the hydro, was going to repair with it in. But if I do remove it, how many bolts does it take to remove, about how long, and will there be fluid loss, and how much as I just changed fluid and filter. While I have the seat off and that much of the tractor is exposed, can you think of anything else that needs looked at, changed, added, or repaired?

R Bedell · #3 05-28-2011, 06:47 PM

Here is the dimensions you are looking for....

_DX3_ · #4 05-28-2011, 09:16 PM

Use the welder to fill in the wear spots, instead of tacking on a bar and then file. Weld a bit more then file. Place a wet towel down and around that arm to protect the seal. Keep the metal as cool as possible. I used the piece that you have laying on the tire to make sure my opening was correct and square. It is also has the same size opening.

krhoover · #5 05-31-2011, 08:49 PM

Do the trunion springs and end caps need replaced also, they look ok. I will be near the local dealer tommorrow.

_DX3_ · #6 05-31-2011, 08:54 PM

Most definitely, the loose their tension over the years. New springs will make a big difference. Worth the small cost.

krhoover · #7 05-31-2011, 09:01 PM

Okay, will pick up tommorrow, still not sure how I am going to fill in corners and build the edges of that wore out area. I have a stick welder and that is not a very heavy plate. Thats why I liked the keystock idea.

_DX3_ · #8 05-31-2011, 09:06 PM

Do you know of anyone with a Mig? Mine looked about like yours and the whole process took me about 20 minutes including the filing. If the stock will work better then do it. I just think you get a better spring fit with the original filled in. But I have never tried one using bar stock. So it may do excellent. Definitely keep us posted on what you do with some pics.

Southtowns27 · #9 05-31-2011, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by krhoover

Okay, will pick up tommorrow, still not sure how I am going to fill in corners and build the edges of that wore out area. I have a stick welder and that is not a very heavy plate. Thats why I liked the keystock idea.

Use some 1/8" 7014 on AC. It won't penetrate very deeply and it is a high deposition rod. If you can't get 7014, 6013 is you next best bet for this job.
Alternatively, find a buddy with a MIG

krhoover · #10 05-31-2011, 09:48 PM

Am going to get back to it this weekend I hope, will let you know how it turns out. I am going to try to do it in the tractor as I am not quit sure what kind of a job it will be to pull the hydro. Just had a nothe thought. Has any one just cut off the wore out part and make one out of new heavier stock and just weld it back on. I could probally get the guys in the machine shop at work to make me one.